*T V" 



THE SCIENCE AND ART 



OF 



DRESS CUTTING, 



TO 



MATHEMATICAL PRECISION 



BY DR. E. P. MINIER. 



7 



e^ 



a 



Cuu, .Maps ana Charts. Engraved Oy Cocheu X Co. 



ONE OF THE GREATEST INVENTIONS OF THE AGE! 

EXCELSIOR 

for DRAmNFule'lfilssEreraEsr Ind^ TO' coats. 

WITH A 10LIO AIA.P OF DKAWLXtS, XSU PLAIN DIRECTIONS FOB SELT-LVSTRVCTIOX, UY 



The above named instrument is a scientific piece of 
mechanism consisting of three separate parts, all perfect 
and complete for use. It is the result of loDg study and 
experiment, and is gotten up at the cost of much ex- 
pense, care and labor. It cannot be retailed for one penny 
less than five dollars, and but for their ready sale not fo; 
that. They would be cheap at fifteen dollars per set, and 
■was it not for putting them beyond the reach of many 
the author -would set that price upon them. For the sake. 
therefore, of favoring those of moderate means and to 
£,ive them a still more rapid sale and introduction, they 
•will be sold for a short time at the above mere nominal 
price. There is no certainty that they will be sold at this 
low rate many months, for their cost "to the inventor and 
value to the public demands and justifies a higher price 
All those, therefore, who obtain them soon will" doubtless 
save money besides profiting by their more immediate 
possession." 

The Map of Illustrations accompanying the Scale em- 
braces over thirty square feet of surfa'ce and consists of 
nine life-size drawings. This alone is worth more to 
every dress-maker than the price asked for the whole 
The book, also, for self-instruction in drafting, arranging 
and making up dresses, is ample in detail and complete 
and perfect in every department. It being entirely s 
self-teaching system, agents will have bat little to" do 
except to pass them along and take tneir change. Those.. 
therefore, who have some capital to begin with and are ; 
lucky enough to secure an agency for the sale of this 



wonder of the nineteenth century will find it a rich field 
of employment. Both ladies and gentlemen will be 
privileged with agencies. Ladies shall have the 
ence and it is hoped on the part of the inventor that they 
will claim and maintain the entire monopoly. The 
Scale, with care, will last a life time and is one of the 
most useful and valuable articles of the age. Any lady 
of common capacity can teach herself its use in one or 
two days, most completely. Its primary application in 
drafting she will learn in* one or two hours; bu, to learn 
its various changes and modifications for the different 
styles and figures will take her a day or more. It is of 
such a character and construction that she may 
only once a month with as much correctness and ease as 
if it was used daily and with no danger of forgetting its 
application. It takes but two minutes by this Scale to 
draft a dress, acd when once fairly understood there is 
no need of trying on any garment drafted by it before it 
is finished. An" accomplished tailor would feel himself 
insulted to have it thought that his drafting would not 
bear to be made up without being tried on, and why 
should not a lady. By this it is easy to be seen what 
increased facility for business it affords the dress-maker 
over all other and former plans. Few things are more 
desirable than easy and beautiful fitting garments, giving 
freedom of motion and symmetry of form. All those 
desiring an agency will be" informed in regard to rates or 
wholesale prices by addressing the author ; see "Special 
Notice" and "Caution to the Public."' 



SPECIAL NOTICE 



Cincinnati will be the only Depot for the Sale of Dr. E. P. Minier's Mathematical Scales for the West, and New 
York City for the East. All letters on business must be sent to the Author's address, to either place, as is most 
convenient: 

Dr. E. P. Minier, Box 1812, Cincinnati Postoffice. 

Dr. E. P. Minier, No. 11 Park Row, New York. 

All should be careful to spell the name correctly, and append the title Doctor, not that the author so especially 
regards the signet of his profession, but to prevent mistakes at either office, with names either the same or similar 
to his own. The letter I, occurs twice in the author's name, and is pronounced as if written Min-neere, with the 
accent on the second syllable. Most strangers overlook the second I, and pronounce the liame as if written Minor, 
with the accent on the first syllable. 

He will attend to his business in person, at both places alternately; and while absent from one or the other, re- 
liable agents will supply his place, for whose promptness and fidelity he holds himself responsible. All persons 
sending for Scales must be very particular and write their names in full, and give the name of their Postofrire, 
Town, County and State, and nearest Express Office, (when necessary,) all in a plain hand, that no mistakes may 
be made. In no case, for the regular price, will less than two Scales be sent to one address, (privilege being 
granted to sell the other.) Two or more can join, and where five club together, a discount of twenty per cent, shall 
be made; or five sets of Scales, all complete, will be sent to one address for twenty dollars. All letters of inquiry 
must be accompanied with a stamp to pre-pay the answer. Remember, that your letters, if not pre-paid, will iv 
miin in your office as dead; this is Postoffice law. There is no legal protection for money sent in letters, and to 
register them is worse than folly. Money thus sent must be at your own risk. A draft sent by letter is perfectly 
safe, and also a check, providing it is drawn to my order, not to bearer. Money should be sent by express, ami a 
receipt taken for it, it is then perfectly safe and costs but twenty -five cents to New York, from any part of the Easl . 
and the same to Cincinnati from any part of the West. The express charges on a small package of Scales, from 
New York to parts East, and from Cincinnati to parts We3t, will be from twenty-five to fifty cents, according to the 
distance. If any prefer to pay for their Scales on delivery, whether agents or others, they can do so by accompany- 
ing their order with two dollars, to insure their acceptance, which amount shall be credited to their account ami 
deducted from the bill. Those wishing to act as local or traveling agents for the sale of the Scales, will be required 
to accompany their order with an assurance to the author that they are persons of reliability, and eveiy way worthy 
of trust and confidence. A recommendation in this form, signed by the acting Justice of the Peace and Postmaster 
of their district will be accepted. Their orders will then be promptly filled and forwarded to their address, inelu 
ding their certificate of agency and private instructions. For further particulars see "Advertisement" and "Caution 
to the Public." 

Where two or more join or club together, the name in full and Postoffice address of each must be given in regular 
succession, as one, two, three, etc., the order of the numbers being noted, and the Scales when received, delivered 
to eaclrin the order of their numbers as above. Suppose a package is received by someone sending a club list: 
the one sending takes the smallest numbered Scale, the second the next, and so on. Eveiy list, on being received 
at the office, either in Cincinnati or New York, is entered on a book in the order in which they appear, with the 
number of each Scale in their order, corresponding to the order of the names. Thus every lady in the United 
States who gets a Scale, will have her name, postoffice address, and the number of her Scale entered on a book at 
the office. Every Agent receiving Scales to sell, will be charged with the list of their numbers, and required to 
keep a schedule or list of each individual to whom they sell, in regular numerical order, and when sold to forward 
a duplicate of the list of names and numbers, etc., to the same office from which they received the Scales. This 
list when received at the office, will be entered on a book as above stated. When a lady sends only for two Scales, 
not knowing to whom the other may be sold, she must take the smallest number of the two, as above, for her own 
use. In such case her nam 3 will be entered on a book with the smallest numbered Scale, opposite her name, and 
the other number below it, a blank being left in which to enter the other name when sent, which she is required to 
do as soon as sold. This is the condition on which the privilege of sale is granted, a neglect of which lays her 
liable to the penalty of the law. 'T is not that the author is unwdling to send a single Scale to a lady, but simply 
because one alone can not easily be packed up without spoiling it. A single Scale can be sent for six dollars. In 
this case the extra dollar pays the necessary trouble and expense of sending without damage singly. 
Any Agent engaged in the sale of the author's Scales, who, for some cause, might desire to quit the business, hav- 
Scales on hand, shall have their cost refunded by returning them in good condition to the office from which they 
were received. There is not, perhaps, any field of employment now open, in which there is so great an opportu- 
nity for agents to make money, as the author is now offering in the sale of his Scales. First, in the rates of per 
centage he gives; and second, from the universal need and value of the article to the public, and from the fart, 
also, that there is no competition, there being nothing before the public (in reality,) of this character, a* may He 
«epn by references to the "Certificates," the "Preface," and "Important Facts and Advice " 



A SELF-TEACHING DRESS MAKING SYSTEM 



SCIENCE 



APPLIED TO 



DRESS CUTTING 



THE .AJRT 



pttfetteb, ^implite anb %tbmt% 



IX THE PROCESS OF DRAFTING, 



MATHEMATICAL PRECISION, 



ACUOilFAXEED WITH 



COPIOUS ILLUSTRATION ASD EXAMPLES, WITH FULL AND PERFECT DIRECTIONS 



SELFINSTRUCTKM. 

BY M. E, P. MINIER. W 



^ 



Any Art or Profession most be scientifically understood and correctly applied to insure success. 



SECOND AND IMPROVED EDITION. 



CINCINNATI: 

IInTQUIEEH JOB OFFICE, FAB-AST & McLEAJST, PEOPEIETOBS. 
1357. 



x < 



"EXCELSIOR." 

MATHEMATICAL SCALE Jt'OR CUTTING LADIES' DRESSES, BASQUES, AND BOYS' COATS 
BY DR. E. P. MUTTER: Cincinnati, 0., A. D. 1851 



I herebv declare to ihe public that the scientific, mechanical aparatus, known by the above 
:ition in its present form and perfection, is of my own designing and labor, and that 1 am, 
truly, the originator and inventor of the same. E. P. MISTER. 

in to and subscribed before me, this 11th dav of November, A. D. 1857. 

W. CfflDSEY, Justice of the Peace. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by Elizitb P. Mjmee, in the Clerk's Office of the 
Southern District Couri of Ohio. 



y 



INDEX 



Prefatory; General Remarks on Scales, &c; Important Facts and Advice to 

Ladies; Introduction. 



GENERAL DIRECTION*. 

1. — Dress Front. 

2. — Position of the Scale in drafting. 

3. — Degrees to mark. 

4. — Marking the sizes. 

5. — To draft the bottom of the Wa 

6. — To draft the line for Side-seam. 

7. — To draft the Arm-hole. 

8. — To draft the Shoulder-seam, or curve. 

9. — To draft the Neck-circle. 
10. — To draft Dart-lines and Dart-. 
11. — Dress Back : how drafted. 
12. — To draft the Arm-hole for the baHc. 
13. — To draft the back Neck-circle. 

DIRECTIONS FOR MEASURING : OEDER, fcC. 

14. — To measure length of Waist. 

15. — To measure size of Waist. 

16. — To measure size of Chest. 

17. — To measure size of Arm. 

18. — To measure length of Arm. or Sleeve. 

19. — To measure size of Wrist. 

20. — To measure length of Skirt. 

EXPLANATIONS AND PRINCIPLES. 

21. — Neck ; size unusual. 

22.— Round Shoulders. 

23.— Darts. 

24. — Darts continued ; principles. 

25. — Darts : Chest measure, in relation to. 



26. — Sloped, or high and low shoulders. 

27. — Shoulder height, how determined. 

23. — High and Low-neck Dress. 

29. — Shoulder and neck scales and chest measure. 

30.— Neck Scales. 

3 1 . — Allowances, Seams, and Trimmings. 

32. — Bottom of back, Avidth and shortening. 

33. — Braced back, and stoop-shoulders. 

34. — Shoulder seams, becoming angle or slope, 

35. — Bottom Neck Scale, special variations, and 
lengthening of Waist, 

36. — Arm sizes, and Shuffle Scale. 

37. — Shoulder curve, irregularities. 

38. — Excess of Darts, an exception. 
( 39. — Arm circles, pendent, how to draft; princi- 
ples of the same. 

40.— C Plate No. 2 : Half-circle Cloak. 

41. — < Pattern for Half-circle Cloak. 

42. — f Antique Cape. 

43. — Plate No. 3. Full Dress Coat-ee, Basque. 

44. — Plate No. 4, Lady's Beauty Basque. 

! 45. — Plate No. 5, Boy's Coat and Basaue Coat-ee. 

46.— Plate No. 6, Girl's Full Dress Walking- 
Wrapper. 

47. — Plate No. 7, Lady Washington Basque. 

48. — Dress, Side-body, and Shoulder blades. 

49. — Directions for making up. 

50. — Miscellaneous items. 



PREFATORY REMARKS. 



" EXCELSIOR." 
Mathematical Scale for Cutting Ladies' Dresses, 

BA8QUE8 AND BOYS' COATS. Bt Dr. E. P. MlXIEl. 

It is with unfeigned pleasure that the author and in- 
ventor of the above-named work is no-w enabled to an- 
nounce to the ladies in general, and dressmakers in 
particular, the perfection and completion of the second 
and improved edition of the above-named invaluable in-j 
strument. The high estimate entertained for it by those: 
who use it and those who are fitted by it, can be seen by| 
reference to the certificates here published, being but al 
few of the number received during the past twelve, 
months, voluntarily sent from different portions of the 
United States. The author deems it useless to say a great 
deal of a laudatory character of his Scale, inasmuch as 
those for whom he has so faithfully and successfully; 
labored have not, as yet, and will not, leave anything! 
wanting in this department. It has been a query with! 
many, and a question often asked the author, why or how,! 
he being a physician, lie came to invent a System of 
Dress-cutting, or turn his attention in that direction I 
This may be briefly answered by stating the fact, that it; 
was from labor and exposure for many years in the dis-| 
charge of the arduous duties of his profession that the 
author became, as many do. a complete wreck in health., 
and abandoned practice; after winch, and partially re- 
gaining health, had his mind accidentally directed to this' 
much-neglected branch of the mechanic art; and seeing 
the utter lack of any scientific system for ladies' drafting,; 
went to work in their behalf, and has, through the exer- 
cise of his inventive and mechanical genius, recently 
perfected a System of Dress-cutting, compared with 
which every other plan sinks into utter insignificance. 

By this Scale, Basques of the most beautiful and im-j 
proved design can be drafted with the greatest ease and 
facility. This superior advantage no other plan pos- 
sesses, which greatly enhances its value. Boys' Coats. ( 
too, of any fashion, or style, or size, from one year old to 
fourteen, and all manner of sizes aud styles for female 
apparel, from one year old and upward, to the measure 
of four feet around the chest. This Scale is also adapted 
in correct taste to the more delicate mould of the female 
form, and to every change of fashion; and, being based 
upon mathematical principles, is of endless self-vartixg 
application. It is an embodiment of all that is valuable 
and complete in the most improved forms of garment- 
cutting, as now practiced by scientific tailors, while yet, 
it is extremely simple and easy to understand and learn 
by any one of common capacity, even though destitute of; 
a common school education. This wonderful piece of ( 
mechanism — embracing so much aud yet so simple — ; 
concentrating, as it were, to a mere point, the tedious and 
complicated manipulations in the art of cutting, is an 
ultimate in the application of science to the mechanic 
art hitherto unattained, and beyond which, it is believed, 
no one can ever go. It has been accomplished through 
much expense and great mental labor, and is a deside- 
ratum which many have long sought, but in which they 
have signally failed. 

All forms of drafting must rest upon a scientific basis, 
without which it is mere speculation; and you, ladies, 
have no more certainty of fitting correctly, without a true 
system of drafting, properly adapted to a lady's figure, 
than a mariner upon the" broad ocean would have of 
reaching his proper destination without the use of a com- 
pass. You have never, till the introduction of the au- 
thor's Scale, had anything realty desirable to cut by, and 



]you now owe it to yourselves, no less than to those for 
whom you labor, to cast aside and forever all former 
'plans — " their name is legion " — and embrace a correct 
principle of drafting, which will give you far greater fa- 
cilities for business, and elevate your entire profession to 
a higher standard of dignity, respect and profit. 
j There is a scientific system of drafting, that a few 
ladies, in various parts of the country, have been shame- 
fully duped into the use of by S. T. Taylor, of Xew York 
;city. The thing referred to— falsely called S. T. Taylor's 
jSystem for Dress-cutting — is not his, and never was; 
neither is it a system of dress-cutting at all; but a system 
Jfor drafting men's attire, adapted to a man's figure, and 
not a female's. It is an old-fashioned, stiff, awkward 
style, and gives every lady who wears a garment cut by 
lit a manish-like figure and appearance. This is a fact 
that I have particularly observed, and have heard quite a 
number of ladies state the same thing. It is of so old a 
idate that but few tailors of the present generation know 
lanything of its existence, it having long since been 
thrown aside by nearly all tailors who have any notoriety 
'as correct and fashionable drafters. This fact is the 
'grand reason, doubtless, why Samuel T. Taylor, of New 
York, has been able to pick it up, and, write two pages of 
directions for its use, and palm it off upon the seamstress 
with impunity as his own recent invention in dress-cut- 
ting, claiming for it originality, *tc. It is known as the 
old Square Scale and Slide System, invented about forty 
or fifty years ago, and has been superceded by newer and 
-terns "for twenty years or more. The system un- 
der consideration belongs" to the public at large, and not 
ro S. T. Taylor. These are facts, and any lady who will 
be to the pains to make the necessary inquiry and com- 
parison will find them so. The beautiful art of garment 
cutting has been carried to a great degree of perfection, 
along with other improvements of modern times, and en- 
tirely superceded the more tedious and complicated plans 
of the past age. It is believed that no tailor of any note 
uses the old system above referred to. Thus it may be 
seen that one of the self-conceited bragadocios of Xew 
York, in the person of S. T. Taylor, is not only a shame- 
less impostor but a public swindler, and ought to be pros- 
ecuted as such. The system is not his; he has no copy- 
right or patent for it, and no legal claim on it. The lit- 
tle excuse of directions, and miserable drawings, that 
probably some one wrote for him for its use, he has go" 
copy-righted, and this is all. He calls it his own inven- 
tion — a new and perfect Self-varying System of Dress- 
cutting, and charges the outrageous price of seven dol- 
lars for it, and says: "Don't be frightened, ladies; I 
.shall soon charge you ten dollars " The system under 
'consideration, though an old and intricate one, being 
jreally a scientific system, is so superior to the miserable 
cards, models, cards, and "pinning-on-to-the-form " pro- 
cess, that it is no wonder that some of the few who have 
adopted this antiquated thing have fallen in love with it, 
and extol it, and believe, as some few perhaps do, that 
its introduction is the dawn of a new era in their long- 
neglected profession. But, ladies, the author is glad that 
he is able to plant your feet upon a firmer basis, and un- 
deceive you in this matter, and show you that you are 
twenty or more years behind the age in cutting, and that 
you are duped and deceived, and your dignity insulted, 
by this self-styled and pretended friend of the seamstress. 
If he wishes to impose upon the lady public with a gen- 
tleman's system for drafting coats, "for ladies' dress-cut- 
ting, which not one in a thousand can adapt to it, and 
cannot invent a true system of his own adapted in cor- 



IMPORTANT FACTS AND ADVICE. 



rect taste and style to the female form and proportions — ] 
for he most certainly has not — then why, in the name of 
reason, justice and honesty, does he not sell and teach 
them the more modern improvements in the art, in it- 
greater simplicity and beauty, in place of this outlawed,! 
obsolete affair? The reason, ladies, is quite apparent! 
He could not palm it off upon you as a self-varying sys- 
tem of dress-cutting, recently invented and originated by| 
himself, and charge you a ruinous price for it. He who! 
will thus deceive, insult and swindle that self-sacrificing, 
class of community, who, with " fingers weary andj 
worn," too long has toiled in vain, is one of that class of 
animals in human form who lives but to disgrace hu- 
manity, and should be shunned as a viper! Such a crea- 
ture — -"were it not for the ; danger of detection and the 
grip of the law — would not scruple to steal or commit 
highway robbery. The author most certainly regrets the 



[unpleasant necessity for writing in this personal manner 
about any one, but the facts in the case, and duty to him 
.self and the public, unfortunately demand it. He would 
jfeign have avoided it, but in truth and justice he could 
not. For further particulars, not proper in this place, re- 
fer to the last article in the book. 

The author does not wish to spend his three score years 
and ten solely for the gratification of self, but desires to 
;liv3 in the affections of his fellow-beings, and be remem- 
bered for the good that he has done, when his body shall 
lhave returned to its primitive elements. And now may 
peace, plenty and social harmony ever attend you, and 
'the consciousness of a well-spent life be your support in 
the hour when the soul of each shall quit its mortal tene- 
ment, the dust mingling with its dust, and the spirit with 
its affinities 

Tours fraternally, 




' Pronounced Miw-keer 



IMPORTANT FACTS AND ADVICE, 



Alany ladies whom nature had given a symmetrical 
and beautiful figure, have been made miserable in health 
and deformed in body by wearing tight-waisted and bad- 
fitting dresses. It is now fondly hoped, by him who has 
provided a remedy for this shameful evil, that the dawn 
of a more glorious day will soon beam upon us; and that 
the time is not distant when American ladies will culti- 
vate more self-reliance, and live and act more in con- 
formity with the dignity and independence of true wo- 
manhood. It should be the pride of American ladies to 
lead, not to be lead — to originate fashions, not to imitate 
them. What in nature is more stupid than servile imita- 
tion — to be led in all things, and lead in nothing. It is 1 
both painful and disgusting to behold it; yet it besets us 
ou all occasions, and in all places, both private and pub- 
lic. Ladies should cea-e making themselves ridiculous 
because some few of their would-be leaders have no more 
sense or modesty than to do so. Tou should cultivate 
more self-respect, more self-reliance, and exercise your 
own taste and ingenuity, and rely less upon foreign pre- 
cedents. There is no more certain way to make one's| 
self stupidly silly and ridiculous than to try to ape the 
manners and customs of those about them; and what is 
true and applicable to individuals and communities is 
also of nations. Tour trans-atlantic sisters hold you in 
light esteem on this account. Too many of our American 
ladies are but mere servile imitators, and do not possess 
that self-reliance necessary to enable them to adopt or im- 
prove, or to throw aside altogether the ideas of others. 
Had you more confidence in your own taste and judg- 
ment you would dare innovations which you now dread;' 
you would accept the prevailing style or mode when it 
suited your taste or convenience, and at once reject it 
when it did not. This is what your English and French 
sisters do, unhesitatingly. Of what earthly use or sense 
is there in a mere walking, life-size fashion print ? No 1 
true gentleman or man of sense would think of making a' 
wholesale dry-goods establishment of himself, and whyj 
should a lady? No man of correct taste would admire 
her for it. He would of course treat her civilly and po-' 
litely, but he could not respect her. Our American ladies; 
are losing caste in the estimation of all sensible gentle-' 



'men, both at home and abroad, by their lack of inde- 
pendence and dignity of character, their excess of jew- 
elry, and superfluity and extravagance in dress. A lady 
of true refinement will carefully avoid those tinselries 
which are proper enough for Indian squaws. These 
gewgaws may serve to highten the effect of a parade upon 
i the stage, but in our social intercourse there can be no 
'offset for the charm of simplicity. The possession of the 
^ost extravagant wealth cannot compensate for a want of 
true delicacy and refinement. With the mind we 
'measure gold, but that cannot measure the mind. 
Through the dress we read the character, and no truly 
'refined and intellectual woman will ever suffer the ex- 
treme of any fashion to set off her mind or her person to 
a disadvantage. On the Continent of Europe people dress 
^according to their personal taste and convenience. In 
that capital which is supposed to set the fashion in affairs 
of d r ess, there is an especial independence in this regard. 
'If any one in Paris has any peculiar taste or choice in 
reference to any one or more articles of dress between 
; their head and heels, they gratify it without the least idea 
,that it can be any one's affair bat their own. Neither 
does any one meddle with it, unless they may chance to 
!like it and adopt it. It is a lamentable fact, and we re- 
Igret that it is so, that American ladies are wanting in 
self- respect and self-reliance. It is a source of embarrass- 
ment, and places us in disadvantageous comparison with 
the people of other countries. On all occasions, both 
public and private, the propensity to follow, rather than 
to lead — to imitate, rather than to originate — stands out 
in bold and shameful relief; and so long as it is so, how 
! shall we, as a nation, be justly appreciated and compre- 
hended by those who have the greatest part in ruling vsl 
'Our foreign neighbors, through the combined influence 
of many causes, are less fortunate and less free; but they 
jhave more social self-respect, and that principle will as- 
jsert itself through all the varied changes of life. Can 
;we not import some through our intercourse with other 
nations? So long as we are determined to imitate, let us 
try to imitate their principles of self-respect, self-reliance 
and independence of character; then, surely, we will 
have profited by imitating. Be it understood that I speak 



6 



IMPORTANT FACTS AND ADVICE. 



of the masses, and not of individuals. I veil know thatl 
there are many honorable and praiseworthy exceptions ta 
the above, and it affords us a pleasure to contemplate the 
fact. We look upon it as a harbinger of better days — of 



ated and admired. Its price, too, is without a parallel, 
and I am gratified indeed that there is a work of this 
kind (an American work) so every way worthy of the 
patronage of the dress-maker and milliner; so reliable, 



a more noble, refined and exalted state of society. May {full and ample in all the needful departments, and that 
all prolit by this brief and well-intended dissertation. I ll can confidently recommend to the reading public as a 



would not wish to disparage ladies in the pursuit of any 
laudable object. Nay, I would commend them for it. I 
say to you, as one who sincerely regards your interests 
pleasure and respectability, go on in the cultivation and 
improvement of all that is retming and exalting; and 
above all, cultivate the head and the heart; then true re- 
finement, delicacy, and correct taste are sure to follow 
Avail yourselves of every means within your reach to im 
prove in the style of dress, if you please, but do not 
tamely follow. Let no foreign precedent be your ruling 
star in matters of fashion. I would advise you, by all 
meaDS, to keep yourselves correctly informed of the im- 
provements, changes and styles of Paris fashions, and 
from them adopt, in part or in whole, or change or im- 
prove them, or reject them, as best suits your taste and 
convenience. To do this will be systematic, aristocratic 
and democratic, and, to the pleasure of the American 
gentlemen, most ecstatic. You will thus manifest true 
self-respect and dignity cf character, and justly merit and 
certainly receive the highest consideration, not only from 
your own countrymen, but those of other nations. Nc 
lady should attempt to carry on dress-making or mili 
nery without availing herself of every possible facility 
for the promotion of her profession and the pleasure of 
her customers. To do this you should first have a com 
plete and scientific system of drafting. This (it is i 
sorry fact) you have never had till recently; but you are 
now informed that you have been amply provided for in 
this department; and be assured that the author nevei 
enjoyed a greater pleasure than that which is afforded 
him by the fact that he is the iir-st and only one in tin 
world to have accomplished this wonderful and long- 
wished lor desideratum. In the 1 second place, as we have 
intimated above, you should correctly inform yourselves, 
from month to month, of the various styles and changes 
of fashions in dress-making and millinery, and be thereby 
enabled to select the best, or exercise your taste and skill 
in altering or improving, according to the true republican 
idea of tins great and crowing nation. As I have voluu- 
teerod bo suggest many things, and have as many do 
ami will know, 'lone so much for you, and so greatly pro- 
you would very naturally expect 
me to give you correct information concerning what work 



chaste and valuable family magazine. I consider it 
very necessary accompaniment of my Scale, and wherever 
the one is the other should be also. In fact, they belong 
together. Mr. Leslie himself is not only a scholar but a 
gentleman, and every way worthy of public confidence. 
He is one of those rare men who will not, for pecuniary 
gains, stoop to swindling and deception. This we can- 
not truly say of all men, and especially of our peculiar^ 
friend, Samuel T. Taylor, publisher of Le £on Ton of 
Fashions. Of all the sycophantic and hypocritical im- 
postors that ever set themselves up with any pretensions 
to respectability or manhood, he takes the palm; and but 
for the fact that tire world have need of such to serve as a 
standard of demerit and meanness, by which the better 
to appreciate the riches of virtue, we should justly con- 
sider ourselves scourged by the creation of such speci- 
mens of the type of man. Taylor will tell you that he 
furnishes you the fashions in his Bon Ton, direct from 
Paris, <tc. This is absolutely false, and a base imposi- 
tion that comports well with the true character of the 
man. It is an impossibility. The Paris fashions must 
Srst come to New York, and then his work must go 
through with all the tedious handlings and times inter- 
mediate and belonging to the laborious process of re-en- 
jraving Ihe several plates and illustrations, the re-print- 
ing, binding, 4c., and then be mailed and sent to you. 
Tou can clearly see and comprehend this. Taylor will 
show you the date of his work to convince you that this 
is not true, thus trying to deceive you. He dates hU 
work and gives the mouth itself, falsifying the date of 
he Paris issue. This is the game he is trying to play. 
His Le Bon Ton, with the exception of the mechanical 
execution of it, is the most miserable tiling of the kind 
hat was ever published, and is unworthy the confidence 
n- patronage of the public. Ladies are deceived by the 
mechanical taste it exhibits, not taking a scrutinizing 
view of its real character. Its reading matter is but little, 
and that little light and trashy; and, like its author, quite 
destitute of soul or merit. His editorials are afac simile 
of himself and a true index to his character, a few spec: 
mens of which you will find here quoted. The Bon Ton 
oo, $5 per year — -just double what Leslie's cost- — 
providing you subscribe for it for two years at a time, as 



on Dress-making and Millinery would be the cheapest, you will see from his advertisement on the back of cov 
and at the same time the best and most reliable for you td [Frank Leslie's Illustrated /< <<tper, like his 

take. To '.Ins tbi e is b ■' one full, loud and echoing an- Family Magazine and Gazette of fashions, is one of the 
Bwer to be given: 6 lie's Oaz tie of Fashions \ valuables and beauties of the age, and an honor to its ed- 

as now united with b 'Ofiine, stands mi -emi- itor. We say to families and to private individuals. 

xent. It is fully equal, in respect Id time, in its reports ofijtake, by all mean*, both the works, if possible. You 
Paris and London fashions, to any that is or can be pub- will never grudge your money for the feist cf good things 
lishe.l: and. in its mechanical and typographical execu- which they will afford you." Price of the paper, three 
tion second to none; while in every other respect it is in-' dollars per year. For the Magazine, see adverti 
finitely superior. ! , be Seen to be appreci 



INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 



Ladies, we are now about to introduce to you the ap- \loose yet beautiful fitting dresses. I do not desire 
plication of the Scaxe in the process of deaftixg. That to detract from the credit due Mr. Fowler and others 
you may take hold of it successfully, and with right goodjin the benefits they have conferred upon the ladies 
will, you should consider well what it is that you are 'through their models" and card plans of cutting. They 
about to undertake. In the first place, you are not im-j,are vastly better than no plans, and are valuable in the 
posing upon yourself, nor being imposed upon, Avith a absence of anything better; such is fact; but they have now 
chart, model, card, nor "pmniug-on-to-the-form" process had their day, and their glory has departed, like all other 
of cutting; nor yet with S. T. Taylor's forged, miserable ; things that have served out their time arid gone. This is 
and obsolete affair, consisting of forty-nine different parts; [la moving age, and we are not a stand-still people. The 
but you are about to enter upon the application and use jold fogy track is entirely too narrow for the almighty ad- 
of a new, complete, si Initely self-varying sys- .vance of Young America. You will find, in taking hold 

tern of drafting. You may, therefore, be assured that you of this Scale, that there is something to do, it is true, 
cannot simply pick it up, look at it a few moments, then It requires some thought and attention — some little labor 
take hold and use it with as much understanding at first of mind; and it would not be worth a cent if it did not; 
as ever, for this is not the case. A young squirrel or but yet you will find it extrernelv plain and simple, and 
partridge is just as smart and knowing when first hatched everything in scientific order. If it should be found dif- 
as they ever are, and just so with your models, cards.and ficult for some particular one to apply the Scale in the 
••pinniug-on" operations. All there ever is or can be first rudiments, (which 1 hardly think possible,) any 
about them is right there. Nothing to learn — no science tailor who understands drafting will set all right in a 
about them — nothing to exercise the mind upon. They few minutes, so that no one need hesitate getting it for 
amount to nothing more or less than a set of patterns, all fear of not being able to understand it. Remember the 
of one uniform shape, differing only in size, with which little song, a part of which is: 
you are expected to fit all the infiuitely varied proportions "All that other iblks cm do, 

of the human figure. This is too great an absurdity to need, Why with patience may not } our ' 

comment. The blunderings, and hinderings, and vexa- ! Now just sit down determined to understand it; take it 
tions, both to yourselves and customers, and spoiling of a part at a time, item after item, and "go through with 
garments, (at least the ease, comfort and beauty of them,) the motions," and you will soon find it all plain and corn- 
is notorious. You think you suit and please your cus- plete. A little ambition, united with some self-conceit, 
toiners, but you do not. The best of you, even, cannot J is a necessary prerequisite in attaining to a knowledge of 
for you have had no proper system to do it with. Youi j any seemingly difficult matter, either in science or art. 
customers dislike to complain; they do not wish to wound [There are many things which, only upon a superficial 
your pride or your feelings, and pretend to be pleased! view, appear intricate and tedious to the mind, that when 
when they are not. Hundreds of ladies have acknowl-!|Calmly and thoughtfully considered, are simple and plain 
edged this fact to me. I do not wonder that this is so^enough. The author's Scale is a remarkable example of 
neither am I faulting you for it. In fact, you all deservejjthis fact. By a little examination you will discover that 
much credit for the tact and skill you manifest in getting; (there is an up and a down to it, and sides also; notwith- 
along as well as you have. You have not been able to (standing, at first view, it may seem to be a confused and 
avoid the difficulties complained of. You have had no] intricate concern, without beginning or end. You wdl 
better means; but now that you have, don't continue (for also dsicover that one of the sides, with its designated 
fear of being humbugged the forty-seventh time) any longerlichain or lines of degrees, is designed expressly for the 
in the old fogy course, or bore yourselves or your cus-. 'drafting of the front, and the other for the drafting of the 
tomers with your former way of doing, simply because back, designated by the terms FRONT SCALE and 
you have got used to it, and dislike to spend a little timeijBACK SCALE. The first thing to do is to familiarize 
or give your attention and a little means to learn some-i yourself with the two sides, names, location and dis- 
cing truly desirable and valuable. One of the chief real tin ction of the SCALES and SHUFFLE SCALE, 
sons why ladies have so scourged, crippled and de- j With these items properly noted, you are prepared to 
formed themselves, committing thereby infanticide and 
suicide, by adopting the sinful, abominable, vulgar and 
shameful practice of wearing tight-fitting garments, is be-i 
cause they could not fit neatly without tightness, notj 
having any true system of drafting to enable them to give 



enter upon its application. 

N. B. — Be cautious in using the SCALE that the mid- 
dle, at the hinges, is not lapped. 

THE AUTHOR. 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS, 

K 

ELEMENTARY APPLICATION OF THE SHALE 



PL, ATE No. 1. 

Size of the Lady— 8— 25— 34 — 11.* 

s Directions for Measuring, No. 14.) 

l. DRESS FRONT.— Procure some clean 
white sheets of paper from the printing office, or 
any place you can, and a lead pencil; tl 
are ready for your first lesson. Now begin, and 
the motions " in their order, 
as here laid down. Take one thing at a time 
and "keep cool," and you will succeed finely 



;the corner of the Square, point P. Next place 
jthe point of your left hand fore finger on the cor- 
ner of the Square P, and with your right hand 
carry the blade down one inch below A: hold it 
there and draw the slanting line J, from P to the 
front, below A. This is the bottom 
Point P is the size around, plus the darts. 
j23 and 24. 

0. Next place the sharp end of the Square be- 
hind the point, size of chest, letter C, and the long 
blade of the square down behind point, size of 
waist, P, and draw a iine from chest point to size 



Lr '- V (J line down theL v , aist points from c t0 p__ a i ong lhe for 

side ot the paper, an inch and a quarter from the ward e ; « ^^ wbich • you ]ine 

ed £ e ' ; tbe allowance for hooks and K (jX tfae back ed of the wais[ or giJe ; eam> 

-apposing that it a to be hooked in front. 7 Now iake the ghuffle Scale> find g ize of 

2. Lay the out • r ront Scale exactly Chest for Arm-hole, and place the corresponding 
on or at tins drawn line. figure of the chest measure (being in this 

3. Mark the figures of the Front Scale (and 343 exacllv at the ■ t> size of chest> ktter ( , 
tnem only) that answer to the above measure a , ]d the e( ] Fron f and Back Arm . hole 8cale) 
viz: 8-25-3-1. (See explana xacdy at the point, size of shoulder, letter D, 
30 y . . and draw a line from the point, size of shoulder. 

4. Marking length ol waist 8 inches, as above, Dj iiloivr the ed ^ down aud ar0U nd the end, a 
give, frou point A: size of waist 25 mches, h ittle ^ letter ^ and gto lhen fin i s]l lhe arm 
S ives BJ J* : Moulder, 34, D: circle> L> from letter F> of the g huffle g cakj t0 
top neck, 34, E; bottom neck, 34, F; dart point, lhe cbest int< letter c Avhh Frout g cal6j under 
G.f Now lay the Scale out of your way, or di- Arm Circle> E D . The mea sure for the arm— 1 1 
rectly from you, that you may look over on to it inch es— as put down above, being a balance pro- 
to recognize on what Scale you got this mark, ( portioD> does not demand attention in this place, 
and what one that, &C, until it is ; lamiliar. : For particulars see No . 36 . 

5. Now take the long blade of the Square in 8- Y ou will next take the straight edge (not 
your right hand, with the sharp point next to aear the crooked iut) of the g } and lace 
you, and cany with your leit band the Length of it at the stou i der and top neck points> D and E 
Waist end of the Square, from you, at the point,, and get the cenler point M> as ueav M vou cari 
size of waist, or letter B and lay the out edge of l guess it; * then toke lhe g huffle g cale> and ou the 
me blade, at the point length of waist, on the; :back of it you win find the g houlder g cale: teke 
front edge, exactly at letter A The Square is the k^end of the Shuffle Scale in your left 
now in the position of B P A., Make a dot at hand> and wkh your right p]aee lhe sLm : p point> 

*You will pay no attention to the arm size now. See -f' down on the arm circle, L, five-eighths (a 
No. 25. little more than one-half) of an inch below shoul- 

iYouarenot to suppose that you are always to mark der point D and the ed „ e /j n the vicmitv f B ) 
the shoulder, neck and chest Scales alike. It is not . _ v -u- i . >, ° y j , . /. , < 

probable that you will mark them alike one time in ten,' f J 0UT hallway dot, M, and draw the right hand 
This is done, and these numbers taken, in this instance.' half of the shoulder; and then place letter C at 
for the sake of greater simplicity, for your first effort, in the top neck point, E, and the edge, B, at the 
the application of the Scale. ■ halfway point, as before, and draw the balance of 

;Dotted lines Ar and Q \ are merely to show the 1 t_ fj 1 • -,- i f 

square, or rignt angles of the bottom of the waist, a»d the 6n ° uldfer cxx * ye > being line M. 
you need never mark them. The shortening of the front, i -'• Next place Front Scale Neck Circle at the 

because of the fullness of the bosom, requires the bottom , 

of the waist in front to be about an inch longer, as line i *You cannot make the shoulder circle without this, be- 
PJ. The back must, on the other hand, be carried up a cause you must only make one half at a time — never the 

i 'whole. 



lop and bottom neck points, E and F, and draw, 
the neck circle, X. Perpendicular line repre- 
sents the center of the front, without any allow- 1 
for lap. See No. 31, last clause. 
10. Place the heel of the square at or near the 
dart point, G, (see No. 23) and carry the blade 
back and up toward the arm-hole and draw the 
line H H; then point off in suitable divisions, for 
darts, and draft them, as represented in the fig 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

DIRECTIONS FOR MEASURING. 
Order: 8-25-34-11-20-5-39. 



1 — Length of Waist. 2 — Size of Waist. 3— Size 
of Chest. 4 — Size of Arm. 5 — Length of 
Arm. 6 — Size of Wrist. 7 — Length of Skirt, 

14. TO MEASURE LENGTH OF WAIST.— 
Stand at the lady's right side, letting her arm 



You may at any time use either the wideijhang naturally; take the end of the inch tape be- 
or the narrow darts. (See Nos. 23 and 24.) 'tween the thumb and fore finger of the left hand; 
They should be at the bottom, about three-quar- -hold it in a horizontal position; place the hand 

f an inch apart, and a full inch or more behind her arm, with the end of tape as hio-h un- 
from the front edge, A, and beveled at the bottom. :!der the arm as the arm hole would naturally be; 
III. Points P and V should be also sprung,! jthen with your right hand, forward of her arm, 
I I. All the seams at the bottom of any waist grasp the tape, placing it at the desired point at 
should be sewed up in this manner. Always hip; to the length add a half inch for sewing on 
sew the darts in the draft lines exactly, but never skirt. Suppose the number 7£ inches; set down 
any other seams. See No. 31. as above, 8. 

11. DRESS BACK.— In drafting a dress back 15. TO MEASURE AROUND THE WAIST, 
you will go through with nearly the same opera- Take your tape in your right hand for all the 
tions or moves as for a front. Perpendicular line measuring, except length of waist. Carry the- 
A:, represents the center of the back. You dis- ( tape around the waist; draw it snugly, but not 
cover that this drafting of the back is wrong side tight Suppose the measure 25 inches; set down 
foremost. You cannot draft one in this positions las above, 25. 

In drafting, the center of the back, line <fe, will ; 16. TO MEASURE AROUND THE CHEST. 
be next to you, the neck to the left and the bot-; You will always measure twice around the chest, 
torn to the right, the same as the front is. It is first standing at the lady's face, and then the- 
arranged here in the present position for the sakeiback; if the two measures agree, you have mea- 
ivenience. Point Q. is the length of waist, sured correctly. Measure very high across the 
8; R the size, 25; S the chest, 34; T the shoul- 'shoulders and over the fullest portion of the bust 
der, 34; U the neck, 34. You will obtain the; or form, in front. A lady should always be 
half- way point, Y, between the neck and shoul-l idressed to have her measure taken, that her form 
der points, U T, in the same way as for the front,Umay be properlv adjusted, without which a cor- 
M, between E and D, for the front. It is not in-jjrect measure could not well be taken. It is of 
tended that you should draw either of the dotted j the greatest importance that the chest measure be 
lines Q Y or A P. (See No. 5, foot note.) You 'properly taken. If the form is deficient, and will 
will place the square in the same relation to R Y. 'not afford the lady a becoming and desirable 
Q for the back, as B P A for the front. You will jfigure, you will make the proper allowance in the 
then make a point at V, for the true size of waist! 'measure, and use padding of cotton. (Mohair is 
for the back. You will get the side seam line,! the best for warm weather. The Scale is arranged 
W, for the edge of the back from the chest point,', for a reasonable sized bust, which must be had 
S, to the size of waist point, V, in the same man-ijeither natural or artificial. If not, you must add 
ner, and with the same means, as side seam line,'|two degrees to the back scale and deduct one 
K, from C to P for the front. !;from the front when you draft the dress; but then 

12. To obtain the arm hole for the back, place Ithis would be out of 3tyle, and ridiculous, un- 
a little dot or point at F, on the Shuffle Scale, ex-!!natural, " unlady-like." Take in your right hand 
actly at the chest point, S, and the edge of the^lslack tape enough for the left hand to come 
Scale, H, exactly at the shoulder point, T, and! ground to the front with; meet the hands at the 
draw the arm hole, X, for the back. Next, draft back; grasp the tape; part them to each shoulder 
the shoulder precisely as you did for the front.; [blade; keep them level with each other, and high 

13. Now take the body or large end of the! [up; hold one hand still; come around with the 
Shuffle Scale in your left hand, and with your|jother to the front; then with the next; pull and 
right, place the sharp point, A, exactly at the; [keep the tape the -while snug, lest it slips down 
ueck dot, U, and hold the Scale at right angles! ion the back; measure snug, but not tight. Next 
with the edge, or line <fe, and draw the back neck jreverse the process, and see if the two measures 
circle, Z. This completes the primary applica-!agree. Suppose the measure 34 inches; set down 
tion of the Scale, and makes one master of its 'as above, 34. 

first principles. For an understanding of itsjj 17. TO MEASURE AROUND THE ARM.— 
multiplied changes and variations, you are re-! [Measure close to the shoulder, letting the lady's 
ferred to the explanations, which study and be 1 band rest upon her hip. Measure snugly, but not 
careful to observe. tight. Suppose 11 inches, set down as above, 11. 

18. TO MEASURE LENGTH OF ARM.— 
Place it in a horizontal position, at an angle of 
forty -five, and measure from behind the shoulder 



10 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 



EAPLA N ATIONS A ND PRIX CIPLES. 



• • w to the wrist. Suppose it to wide dart piece, or three inches and three-quar- 
down as above, 20. ters, the Square being one and a fourth inch 

19. TO MEASURE SIZE OF WRIST.— Sup- wide. Instance: A lady does not need the full 
pose it i" be five inches: set down as above, 5. j amount of darts as a full-sized bust requires. In 

20. TO MEASURE LENGTH OF SKIRT.— (such a case, place a narrow dart front and a wide 
Measure front, hip, and back, from the bottom of one back, thus giving a more natural shape, and 
waist to the floor. Suppose it 39 inches; set! 'deduct one-half of the width of the Square from 
dow n as above., 39. ihe point size of waist. Again: for a lady with 

a still smaller form, use two narrow darts, and 
take once the whole width of the Square from 
the size of waist point. If one wide dart is de- 
sired, take once its width from the size of waist; 
and finally, if only one narrow one is needed, 
.1 Neck, if i'i;.. mmon size, take its take twice the width of the Square; and if none, 

measure and apply to the neck circle, when then take three off: Thus, you see, that you 
drafted, and extend it above or further down, as have no measuring or calculations to make, but 
- demands. -imply change the widths, as above. A little girl 

Round shoulders, if accompanied with a should have one dart: it makes the dress set more 
very full bust or bosom, demands no attention, neatly. A boy needs no darts; you will deduct 
for the relative balance of the arm holes, in such them and add two degrees to his back scale, and 
uase, will be true; but if, with only common size take one from the front. See No, following. 
bust, or rial it, in either case an 25. Chest Measure, in relation to Darts. — If a 

allowance mus( be made. The relative position lady has a very full bust, always in such case 
of the arm holes must be thrown a little further take one ore two degree, as the case may require, 
forward. To do this, add from on< •[•- from the back, and add the same amount of space 

i dedui I the same to the front. (See plate 4, P P, R R, and N N.) 
amount from the front. (Do hot deduct the same Again, on the other hand, a lady who has a small 
rtumber Of they are longer.) bust, but of ordinary proportions and figure oth- 

II' you cl oose, you can measure across the back erwise, add one degree to the Back Scale and de- 
and 'apply to the Scale and see where it fetches duct the same amount (or one-half degree) from 
foxx— -whethi It would be the front; and with a very small bust — as some 

an extreme case to require two. With a little young ladies and young girls Avho do not and 
training your judgment would doubtless be morel (need not care about using wadding — for such, 
accurate than your measure. add two degrees to the Back Scale, and deduct 

;23. Darts' or, as some call them, biases. The dart one degree and a half from the Front Scale. 
p" 1 " 1 uj Seal is fixedal an average hight, the Thus, you see, that an extreme full bust requires 

extremes of which are an inch and a quarter above a deduction from the Back Scale, while a small 
and below, according to the greater or less fulW and very small bust are increasing addition to 
riess Of the form. For little girls it should be the Back Scale. Don't mistake. 1 will repeat: 
about on a horizontal plane with the under arm A very large bust requires a subtraction or nar- 
oircle. YoU will, therefore, carry a line from, at rowing of the back — a deduction of from one to 
above or below the dart point, as the case de- two degrees — while a small bust requires an ad- 
mands, in an inclined direction toward the under dition of one and two degrees, as above stated, 
arm-hoi-, as you will see on plate 1st, line H H. You must always observe this in taking measures 
and plate 4th, line E F. You will place the up- and cutting garments. In cutting boys' clothes 
per points, as well as the lower end of the darts, you must always deduct one degree from the 
ni such relation to each other, and such distance front and add two degrees to the back. You 
froin the front edge of the waist, as will give must not forget this, nor any part of the above, 
gracefulness to the figure, and at such a hight if you wish to give ease and perfectness of fit. 
as shall give ease and rest to the form. If too 26. Sloped, or High and Low Shoulders. — 
h'igh, an unnaturalness will appear; if too sharp, Some are called sloped and others square shoul- 
;t 'binding or tightness will be the result. A dered. Bo far as the relation of the shoulder 
lady with lull bosom should have the upper points and chest are concerned, there is no such 
points of the darts more convex, broad or round-' thing. The figure — falsely so denominated — has 
ing than one who has not, to give rest and ease, reference to the cone-like form in some, and square 
Unmarried ladies, and girls especially, may have s ] 



the darts le^s 

ha 

darts 



peeially, may nave shape in others, of the upper part of the chest 

convex. With a full form you or body, at the base of the neck. If high, the 

no variation in amount to make with the slope of the shoulder from the neck to the shoul- 

l -e three of the narrow- (sharp point of der point is very oblique (slanting); if low, the 

the square) or Lwo of the wide darts, and it is reverse. To call such ones either squat 

al] [ngtrt. See No. 28. -lope shouldered is an error, if you mean by that, 

Principles. — (Darts, continued.) — The that the shoulder points are down further or up 

waist, when obtained by the Scale, is al- higher in i elation to the body of the chest. It 

plus (more) your true size, three times the. is only that some have more and others less bulk 

width of the Square, or twice the width of the 1 'of body above an imaginary horizontal line 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 



11 



between the shoulder points. There is, I believe, 'shoulder at the neck as one that measures forty 
no known process of measurement that will give jor more inches, providing that the shoulder is of 
exactly, in all eases, this elevation or depression, a common slope from the neck to the point, and 
You will, therefore, be compelled, as all drafters of a proportionable thickness with her size, hight, 
.•ire, to take the standard (see No. 30) and use kfcc. To repeat: The Neck Scales the same as 
your judgment for any such variation. A little; ichest for all sizes under thirty-four inches, and 
practice and observation will enable any one toj (remain at thirty-four for all sizes beyond. 
judge quite accurately. Some become infallible. j) 31. Allowances, Seams and Trimming. — Your 
The judgment is capable of great cultivation. No seams for the shoulder, arm circle and side, must. 
plan or process in drafting garments now known always be taken one-fourth of an inch inside of 
to man, entirely relieves or superceeds the exer- the draft lines. You will allow surplus cloth ou t- 
ciae uf the judgment. (See plate 4, I 1 1. These side of the draft lines; on the shoulder three- 
dots and dotted lines shows you the character of quarters of an inch, and side seam one and one- 
the variations — the so-called slope or squareness quarter of an inch, on the shoulder to keep it 
of the shoulders. firm and smooth, and. side seam for stays. Any 

27. Shoclder Hight, How Determined. — In seam or seams except these you must recollect 
taking a lady's measure you will stand before, and allow for. If you -wish a higher neck band 
her, aud survey the relative hight or lowness of than the Scale drafts, alloAV for the hem, a "wide 
the shoulders next to the base of the nexk, andfpnej if not, cut close to the neck circle. You 
if of natural or common slant or fullness, you will always trim close to the draft line of the arm - 
have nothing to note, let the measure be what it hole, both for the front and back. You will trim 
may. You will go according to your Scale ad the bottom of waist even with slanting line P J, 
defined. (See No. 30.) But if higher andilplate 1, till at J; then give surplus length to al- 
fuller (or the reverse) than natural, you will state jlow for taking up darts, after which trim to fetch 
or note in connection with the measure whether] [the whole bottom in a straight line with P J, and 
you will add or diminish one, two or three de- to the front an inch below A. Sew the darts in 
grees on the neck. (See plate 4, I I I.) It the lines exactly. Always allow what you wish 
would be an extraordinary case that would re-i for hooks and eyes — about one inch and a quar- 
quire over two degrees, more or less, than natu-;'ter. The front and back edge or border lines 
ral. Very few can be found to require three. !of the Scale represents the center of front and 



High and Low Neck Dress. — If you de , 
sire the neck higher than the Scale drafts it, a f ter; 
drawing your true neck circles, draw others as; 
far from the first as you wish it to be higher; if; 



back. 

32. Bottom oe Back, Width and Shortening. 
The width of the waist for the back, at the bot- 
tom, is arranged for a common proportioned 



to a very magic novelty in the science of mechan-| letter V, and lay the 
ics. Such is the expression of those who are ca-j length of waist, point 



low, or very low, draft the natural; then withl'ure, but where the waist is of more than an or- 
your inch tape and pencil strike such a circle on||dinary proportion of size, it would throw the 
the front and back as suits you, and cut accord-jlbottom of side seams too far back. You will in 
ingly. By drafting the natural neck circle first,) .such case add to the width of the back and take 
you have a guide or standard to go by. equally from the front, or add to point V and 

29. Shoulder Scales, Neck Scales and Chest: 'take from point P (see plate No. 1) sufficient to 
Measure. — By the peculiar mechanical arrange-j 'give a becoming shape and proportion of the 
ment of this Scale, the difficult, complicated and]|back and front. You will also shorten the cen- 
tedious process of measuring to obtain shoulder' Iter of the back from one-fourth to three-fourths 
and neck sizes, bights, widths, depths and[;of an inch, according to figure and attitude of 
lengths, as well as infallibility of arm sizes, isijthe body, otherwise it will wrinkle across the 
quite superceded, and the whole reduced to a'jback. Place dot G, found on the back of Shuffle 
standard of exactness and simplicity amounting! -'Scale, at the point size of waist (for the back), 

"ge, as much above the 
as you wish to shorten 
pable of judging of its merits, that understand' 'it, and draw a circling line as seen in the figure, 
it. You will always mark the Shoulder Scale of; ! plate No. 1. 

the Front and Back the same as the chest mea-'j 33. Braced Back, and Crouched or Stooped 
sure. To this there is no exception whatever;' Shoulders. — Some persons stand very straight 
but after you have marked them you may be com-|jwith their shoulders thrown well back, as all 
pelled to change them. (See Nos. 34 and 36.); should do. For such, narrow the back and 
You are informed that you do not always mark widen the front; others, again, exactly the re- 
the Chest Scales in conformity with the chest; iverse, and you will for them widen the back and 
measure. (See No. 39, and plate 4, P Q.) j narrow the front. Suppose a lady of natural pos- 

39. Neck Scales. — Each one accords with theiiture has a remarkable full bosom; in such case 
chest measure, from the smallest size up to thirty- deduct one or two degrees from the back Scale 
four inches, beyond which, let the chest measure: land add to the front (see plate 4, P P, R R, 
be as large as it may, you remain at thirty -fourjlN N) two degrees of the back scale, is about equal 
on all the Neck Scales. This may seem strange.' Jto one and a half of the front. Remember that 
The reason is, that a lady who measures thirty-; 'every degree that you add or diminish makes 
four inches around the chest is as high on the'jfcwice that in the double. 



12 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 



34. Shoulder-Seam Becoming Angle or Slope. 
As you ascend or descend from a common pro- 
portion or standard of the Neck Scales, for per- 
sona of a higher or lower shoulder than natural, 
you increase or diminish the angle of the shoul- 
der seams from the points of the shoulder to the 
neck. For square shoulders they should of 
course be more square, and for natural shoulders 
natural — either of which the Scale will regulate; 
but for higher shoulders than natural, or stooped 
shoulders, in either case the angle or slope of the 
shoulder seams will be and appear too great. A 
remedy for either case consists in raising the 
points of the shoulder seams. To do this, in- 
crease the length of the arm circle for the back 
and diminish the front the game amount. A half 
inch will make considerable difference. To do 
this correctly, however, you must first draft both 
the arm circles natural; then make new shoulder 
points, the back above and the front below the 
natural ones, which you will then scratch out 
Now get your half-way dots, and draw the shoul- 
der circles from these new made points, then all 
is right and tasteful. 

35. Special Variations of Bottom Neck 
Scale, and Lengthening of Waist. — You will 
deduct, or mark lower, one degree on the Bot 
torn Neck Scale and add one-fourth inch to 
the Length of Waist Scale, (and on the Square 
also, ) for every two inches of chest measure above 
thirty-six. The above must be strictly observed, 
and only pertains to the front. This deviation of 
the Bottom Neck Scale has no reference or inter 
ference with any other size, shape or considera- 
tion whatever. You have doubtless learned that 
the length of waist on the front edge Of the Scale, 
and that on the Square, must always exactly 
match. To this there is no exception for front or 
back. You have found, too, that after the bot- 
tom of waist for front and back is determined, 
as shown by the dotted lines (plate No. 1), that 
the back is shortened at the center (See No. 32), 
and the front lengthened in front, because the 
form takes up its length. You will be guided in 
the amount of additional length by the greater or 
less fullness of bosom. 

36. Arm Sizes and Shuffle Scale. — On the 



ing to the arm size, and scratch out the old one.* 
Each degree between the figures of the Arm 
Scale answers to the third of an inch, which is 
minute enough for all practical use. For every 
two degrees of the Arm Scale, above or below 
the shoulder point, you will add or subtract, as 
the case may be, one degree on the Top Neck 
Scale for the front.* You will also add or sub- 
tract one degree on the Size of Chest for Arm 
Hole for every degree of the Arm Scale above or 
below the shoulder point. By this process you 
preserve the integrity of the angle of the shoul- 
der curve or seam, while at the same time you 
increase or diminish the arm size, in conformity 
with its true measure. To figure or number 
every degree of the Scales would make them too 
small. The figures are now large, and you can 
better read the intervening degrees by count. 

37. Shoulder Curves — Inequalities. — In ele- 
vating or depressing the neck points for higher 
or lower shoulders than the natural proportion 
(see Nos. 26 and 27, and plate 4, I I I), the 
shoulder seams or curves become unequal in 
their lengths. The curve for the back becomes 
one-fourth inch longer than the front for even- 
additional degree above any given standard upon 
the Neck Scales. (For what I mean by stand 
ard, see No. 30.) When you elevate the Neck 
Scales one degree, carry the shoulder curve of 
front one-fourth inch past the Top Neck point to- 
ward the front edge, and make a new neck dot, 
and draw the neck circle accordingly, and vice 
versa. 

38. Excess of Darts — An Exception. — A lady 
with an extremely large bosom would most likely 
[require an additional narrow dart. If so, place 
it in front of the two wide ones, and add its width 
to the size of waist point. Some ladies prefer 
three narrow darts instead of the two wide ones. 



or diminish for the one degree on the Arm Scale two de- 
grees of Size of Chest for Arm-hole, in its application to 
the chest point, "as in all eases made and provided." 

*You must not forget, let you fix your shoulder point 
where you may, that from it to the neck point you get 
your half-way point, and also drop the sharp point of your 
Shuffle Scale, letter A, five-eights of an inch below, in 
drawing the shoulder curve. (See No. 8 ) 



(Se 
j ! *You have nothing to do in this case with the Back 
Shuffle Scale you discover a scale of degrees, Neck Scale , or8hou 4 r s, for any change of arm-hole that 



ranging from five to thirteen and upward. These 
degrees represent all the arm sizes from that of a 
child one year old to the size of a lady whose 
cheat would measure four feet. If the size of 
arm next the shoulder is a natural proportion 
with the size of the chest, as a great majority 
are, you will find that the measure of the arm on 
the Scale will come invaribly exactly at the shoul- 
der point. (See No, 7, and note.) The natural 
proportion is as 3 times 1 1 is to 34, or 1 2 to 37, 
or 8 to 25. If the measure of the arm is a dis- 
proportion, more or less, it will not match with 
the shoulder point. If the variation is more than 
one degree,* make a new shoulder point, accord 



*I would not advise a change of the shoulder point for 
the difference of one degree only; but as a substitute 
instead, if you wish hair-breadth exactness, you can add 



you may make. Raising or lowering the Neck Scale of 
the front does not essentially alter the length of the shoul- 
der curve, while for the Back Neck Scale the variation is 
a fourth inch for every degree on the neck above or below 
a natural proportional slope, regardless of whether the 
chest size be twenty, thirty, or forty inches. This might 
appear to some to be a curiosity, and eo it truly is; but I 
have not space to explain it. (See No. 37.) The whole 
concern is a curiosity, and in the application of science 
to art without a parallel in the history of inventions. Jt 
might also be asked why, if the shoulder is natural and 
of average slope, I would or could properly, in conformity 
with the rules laid down raise or lower the Top Neck 
Scale of the front? To do so, would you discover, pre 
vent changing the angle of the shoulder curve, by any 
disproportion of arm size, by which the shoulder point 
would be changed; and the difference of size, consequent 
upon the raising or lowering, would be as necessary \v 
the case of the shoulder as the arm, inasmuch as a ti 
or thick arm is an invariable indication of a thin or t;... 
houlder. 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 



13 



If such a choice should happen with a form as be 38 inches — thus, the front 36, the sides 38, 
above, she would then take the two wide with and the back 39 inches. The collar or cape 
the one narrow, which would "fetch her all should be in proportion, front &nd back, as seen 
right again." iu the figure, and at its back portion about two- 

39. Arm Circle Pendent — How to Draft, thirds the length of the cloak. It must also be 
It would not be amiss, perhaps, first to say that open in front, only touching at F. The above 
no short or thick-set, square, or broad-shoul- neck size, and the length, <fcc, is suited for a 
dered lady looks well with the shoulder seam lady of five feet five inches bight. A cloak for 
thrown down over the point of the shoulder on high or a broad shouldered person should be still 
the arm. The Scale drafts it in good style for longer down the sides — say 39, same as back, 
all such figured persons, and, indeed, for all per- To sum up: The length of side and back should 
sons possessed of good taste, independent pi in- be equal if the lady is square shouldered or 
ciples and a reasonable share of self-respect, broad. In either case there must be a difference 
Open the map to plate 4 and see chest point, j? of three inches between front and back. This is 
P, and dotted lines S S and T, for Front and the law, If the figure is good and natural the 
Back. This is a true sample in illustration of a front, sides and back stand as above — 36, 38, 
pendent shoulder or arm seam. For a ladvof'39. 

ordinary figure and proportions you will deduct J 41. To cut the pattern for the above half cir- 
one degree from the back and add one to the! cle cloak, lay down a very large newspaper, or 
front. A lady measures 37 inches — mark the 1 'paste the long sides of two together. The square 
front 38 and back 36. Thirty-seven on the of the paper is the fourth of the circle, and of 
Shuffle Scale must be placed at the artificial course half of the cloak, it being but a half cir- 
chest dot, and the edge at the shoulder point (all 'cle. Let H E represent the back and H Gr the 



front; pass from the corner, H, of the paper 
down to D, and down to F, and make a dot: from 



as usual), and then place the point of the fore 
finger of the right hand exactly on a little dot on' 
the nose of the Scale, letter F, and hold it for a these dots strike your neck circle, B B, and also 
pivot, while with your left hand you push the 1 'measure your front and back as long as the lady 
Scale back from true shoulder point to dotted line wants her cloak, making the back three inches 
S, and draw the arm circle, continuing the shoul-! 'longest; then run an imaginary line from point 
der curve directly to it, as shown in the figure.' D diagonally across the paper as line I 1 1 in the 
By placing the Shuffle Scale in the position as 'figure, and mark the length of the side as above 
first named above, and drawing the arm circle! shown. Now hold the end of your inch tape 
without pushing back to dotted line S, yeu ob-||some where near D, while the tape with the pen- 
tain arm circle, P R, for front and back. This oil is grasped with the other hand and touched 
gives you that fullness forward of the shoulder !at the point for the bottom of back, side and 
points, and beautiful breadth of chest so much 'front. You will be obliged to alter the point or 
sought after by all ladies of correct taste. You iposition of your tape near D, and the length 



can see by the plate in what position to set the 
Scale for the arm-hole of the back. Dot and) 
dotted P R for the front and back match; also, 



where you grasp it, until by making the sweep 
you can touch point for front, side and bael<; 
then strike the circle; then cut out the gore, A 



dot and dotted line P S — the first for a broad, A A, allowing for seam: By this process you 
fine chest, with the arm seam where it ought to can cut a beautiful setting cloak for any one. 
be, and the second for a pendent shoulder, that^To obtain a proper pitch for neck circle, measure 
is thought by some to be most exquisitely beau- 'its size at the base of the neck where the edge is 
fciful. For a pendent shoulder you always raise :|desired to come, and let the distance from H to 
the shoulder seam on the back, as seen in the !F be equal to half the neck size, exclusive of the 
figure, dotted line T. You will only raise it half jgore, and the distance from H to D be as 5 to 8^ 
way from where you would naturally place it to'jof the same. Let the gore be proportioned as in 



the shoulder point. (See No. 36.) 



PLATE No. 3. 

40. Beautiful Half Circle Cloak and Col-! 
lar. — D E, center of back, 39 inches. 

F G, center of front, 36 inches. 

B B, full sized neck circle. 

A A, stitches together for spring on shoulders 

C C, C 0, the collar or cape. 

J, the opening of the collar at the back, at] 
which may be a tie and streamer, 



the figure, AAA. It should vary from half an 
inch to two inches in width, being that from a 
child's size to the largest sized lady. Cloaks for 
men and boys are cut exactly on the same prin- 
ciple. 

42- Beautiful Setting Antique Cape. — K 
K, center of back, 19 inches. 

N, part of neck, 2-1- inches. 

M M, the front from N down, 21 inches. 

P P, P P, unite and form seam over shoul- 
der. 

L L, the bottom, and is 41 inches. 

0, an imaginary line from the neck over the 
shoulders down, and must be half an inch longer 



III, an imaginary line from the back of the;, than the back. The front, when on the lady, 
neck over the shoulder point down to the bottom' jrnust be a little shorter than the back. The 
' f the side, the length of which from D should i above measure is for a large sized lady. 



14 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

PLATE IV©. 3. PLATE NO. 4. 



43. Ladies' Full Dres3 Coatee Basque. — 
A, arm circle, for coat sleeve, (gentleman's style.} 

BB, BB, line on which to set the collar. 

CC, the break or fold of the collar. 

D, opening of lappel. 

EE, EE, out edge of collar when turned clown. 

FF, opening at D, by cutting off the end of the 
collar at F J. 

GG, perpendicular line for center of front, 
without any allowance, and at which a couple of 
loups, with buttons and tassels unite the front, j 

H H, spring for the bottom of darts. 

I, allowance and shape of lappel for breast. 

J J, junction of lappel and collar, when it is 
desired to be open, at D, in which case the point 
of collar is cut off at J F. 

K, shortening of back for collar, correspond- 
ing with B B, front and back being lower forj 
collar, than when no collar is put on. 

L, out, or back edge of sleeve, or arm-hole. 

M, inside or forward part of arm-hole. 

N N, point of collar left on, and united at the 1 
out edge of lappel, (with no opening at D.) 

0, diverging lines, representing more full-' 
ness of skirt, by giving greater width to the bot-j 
torn, and taking the more convex lines, U Z. 

PP, PP, Btiched together and turned back un- 
der Q Q, which forms the fold edge. 

QQ, QQ, unite for the fold; PP, PP, being 1 
turned back under, same as gentleman's frock-! 
coat. 

R, outer edge of sleeves, and joins the body : 
halfway between side-seam and seam at shoulder 
point. 

S, form of cuff, and may be of plush or silk. 

T, the welt under which your hand goes into 
the pocket. 

U, curves, better suited to give great fullness 
of skirt, and the little gores being taken up, 
makes a smoother set over the gathers of the 
skirt adjoining the waist, or with a bustle. 

V V, stitching, or barring a ure the 
folds to their place, at the point of which is a 
button, as at X . 

W W, bottom of skirt, 

X X, unite, at whicli point is n. button. 

Y Y, front edge of skirt. 

Z, top of skirt that joins part of side-body and 
bottom of waist of front, after darts are taken up. 

It is hard to conceive a more beautiful, dressy, 
fancy basque than this. It would not of course 
be suitable for all persons or ages. You must 
be careful to observe the shape of this skirt: 
circle Z, is more convex near X, and the angle of 
Q Q, with the bottom of skirt, i< much greater 
than that of Y Y, with bottom of skir 
back of the skirt should be also a little the long- 
est. The size of sleeve is a matter easily 
measure the arm near the shoulder, as 
you want the sleeve, then double it and lay ii 
across the large end of the sleeve, and get its 
proper size, and for the length and size of wrist, 
suit yourself. 



44. Tfie Ladies' Beauty Basque. — A A. 
unites for seam from hip down to bottom of skin. 
:and is of average fullness for large skirts. 
1 BB, BB, (whole lines,) center of front and 
back. 

B B, (dotted line,) the scale should be set 
back from a direct line in front in this manner, 
(the length of waist at J,) for persons of defamed 
or tunnel shaped waists, with full skirt; else the 
skirt of the basque, at the lower front points 
will he wide apart. By making an angle from 
the neck to J, and from thence to the point at the 
bottom, brings the skirt nearer together. 
C, dart point. 

DD, DD, dotted lines; cut the darts in two 
clear through at the bottom, that they may sew 
up smoothly, without one edge gathering on the 
other. 

EE, dart line. 

FF, FF, the back here should be one inch 
longer than the front. 

GG, double lines, unite to form the side-seam 
HH, suitable shape and fullness, where skirt 
of dress hangs smooth and straight from the 
waist down ; but where the skirt sets full on the 
waist, or a bustle is worn, so straight a seam 
would not do. 

Ill, different hights of shoulders, (See No. 26.) 
JJ, the square or right angles of the waist, 
(See No. 5, foot note.) 

KK, bottom of waist proper. 
LL, shows the shape of the edge of skirt of 
the basque, as it should be drawn when the 
dress skirt is full or a bustle worn ; and also the 
greater or less fullness of the skirts below the 
waist. Lines A A, being an average. 
MM, halfway points. (See No. 8 ) 
XX, (See pendent shoulder No. 39.) 
00, natural line for a dress waist, (See No. 6.) 
PP. (See Nos. 22, 25, 33,) artificial points.) 
QQ, (See Numbers as above,) natural chest 

RR. to give extra fullness, forward of shoulder 
points, (See Xo. 39, last clause.) 

SS, pendent shoulder or arm-hole, (See No. 39.) 

T, the curve of shoulder should be a little 
higher than natural, when set over by this char- 
ming- style. 

U, shows the convexity of different circles for 
side body : you will draw them with your tape 
and pencil. Let the radius of the circles for 
various sized persons, range from six to eleven 
inches, (including children and large sized adults, j 
Hold your pencil and tape in the same way as 
though you wished to make a circle for a wheel; 
let the pencil touch at chest point, and the bot- 
tom of waist, as in the figure, then draw the 
circle. N". B. The convexity of the curve, must 
be proportion lo the size of the lady, to look 
well. 

V\ . VV. these lines unite to form the seam 
from the bottom of the waist down; beino- a con- 
tinuation of the side-body, circle V, Line BB, 



GEXERAL DiKECT10X>. 



15 



is the center of the back, which should be em on 
the fold : W, being the bottom center of skirt of 
back. 

W this line muse be two inches below V, and 
longer than the front skirt. 

X, bottom of the skirt of the side-body. At TV 
the bottom of side-body, and half of back come 
together. Line VV, that is near B, is the edge 
of side-body, and line VV, that is near dotted 
line HH, is the edge of the skirt of back. 

YY, represents the half of the back. 

ZZ. represents the side body. You can now 
compare them and see the relation. 

i'Oc. dots for size of waist 

X. B. You will always draft your back pattern 
un paper; and then cut out the half of the back, 
regardless of side-body. This will of course 
take a " large slice" out of the side body skirt, 
for which you slip a piece of paper under the 
edge and piece it, and trim it to the shape of ZZ. 

The bottom of the skirt of the back, lower 
corner V, must always be about one inch shorter 
than X; and W, from one and half to two inches 
longer than to V, just above it. The skirt must 
commence from line K, and not from line J. 
Don't neglect this. Your front, always draft out 
on your cloth, but not the back. You will, as 
stated above, draft the back separate, and cut 
out the back first without piecing the paper, and 
next the side-body, which of course you will be 
obliged to p : ece to get it in the shape of ZZ, or 
as you would have it if cut entire without regard 
to the back. You will fold your cloth, and lay 
the edge of the back pattern on the fold, and cut 
your back all whole; then the side body pattern 
on the double, and cut out both of them; your 
basque is then complete. In drafting the front 
waist for a Basque, you will for a medium sized 
lady, take off one inch of the waist under the arm, 
and a half inch at the bottom of side-seam; (See 
line G, of the front;) and to the back waist you 
will add one inch at the top, and one half inch at 
the bottom of side seam, making up for the 
narrowing of the front, as shown by line G — 
lines, 00, being the true lines for a natural dress 
waist. This is done that the circle IT, may start 
at the true chest point, and come under the 
shoulder blade as it ought, to give ease and : 
elegance of figure. You will give the pitch to 
the upper addition of the back, as seen in the 
figure, from point P, back under Q You will 
commence the side and shoulder seams, in sew- 
ing up the waist at the arm-hole. 



CC, this space shows the allowance for lap, 
DD, being the line of the true center of waist. 

E, gentleman's arm-hole curve, (the sleeve 
will be found on Plate No. 3.) 

F, the lady's arm-hole curve; curve E, is made 
with the ladv's neck-eircle, found on the Shuffle 
Scale. 

G, pocket hole. 

HH, HH, unite for side-seam, on the Basque 
principle, as seen on Plate 4. This is for a 
Basque Coatee. 

II, II, lines that unite for side-seam for coat, 
[as a common dress for lady.] 

J, double line, J, L, true edge of side -body, 
down to bottom of skirt. Double dotted line, J. L. 
an artificial widening of side-body skirt, to give 
more spring or fullness. The edge HH and JJ, 
should be the edge of the cloth when cut out 
with an allowance on the edge JJ, for seam of 
course. Double lines M, K, and J. L, is the 
shape of half of the back; with also an allowance 
on the edge J L, for seam as above. 

K, edge of back skirt for Basque Coatee. 

LL, edge of side body r , which must be widened 
to J, for the purpose just explained. 

XL double line, drawn with an angle, to give 
spring to the back, upon which the edge of the 
Scale must be put, [See Xo. 2 and 31, last 
clause.] 

00, continuation of side-seam lines, from the 
lower points of which you measure the amount 
of spring or fullness you desire for the skirt. 

P, collar to stand up; the longest edge to join 
double dotted line, A. 

Q, a continuation around of line A, to the cen- 
ter of back, for collar. Small boy's, coats 
look nice without any cloth collar, by simply 
binding the natural neck circle, and wearing a 
white turn-over collar. 

RR, the three spaces between these four dots, 
represents the deduction of all the darts, [See 
Xo. 24,] which leaves the boys true size of 
waist. 

SS, correct bottom of waist. 

T, the corner of the front skirt, may be shaped 
to suit fancy or fashion. 

TJ, center of coat back, [when not a Basque.] 

V, spring for the coat back, as above. 

TV, point, size of waist for back. 

X, point for size of waist, for front. 



PiiATE ISO. 6. 



i 46. Girls' Full Deess Walking Wkappek — ■ 

A, open bosom. 
P1LATI3 I% r 0. 5. j B, edge of plush collar, turned over from line 

A, extending from center of back. 
45. Boy's Coat axd Basque Coatee — The C, point of dart and dart line, 
double lines and double dotted lines represent D, small dart, to give spring to the waist and 
the Basque Coatee, except lines A, E and Q, skirt, 
which are the same for both. EE, deduction of two darts, [See Xo. 24.] 

AA, the circle of neck for collar, and edge of FF, broad velvet band, a continuation of the 
collar that joins on. collar, and should extend to GG, the bottom 

B, the break of collar, or where it turns oveiViedge clear round. 



16 



DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING DRESSES, &C. 



Ill, different degrees of fullness of skirt, for FF, miniature front, 
hip and back. GG, miniature back, that must be cut out of 

JJ, lines down under the arm to JJ, that meet part of side body skirt, same as Plate 4, and be 
for side seam. in shape as this, GG. 

K, where the front comes together, to be tied HH, miniature side body complete, after being 
or looped with cord and tassel. patched, as in case of Plate 4. 

L, that much spring from the straight fine N, II, II, lines unite for side body seam, skirt and 
to yive shape to the back, and set out the skirt, all, same as AA. 
Set the Scale on this line L, to draft the back. JJ, JJ, lines unite for side *eam, same as lines 

N. B. You cannot diaft the backs the way CC, CC. 
they are here drafted. [See No. 11.] K, all these lines represent the bottom of 

M. center of the bottom of skirt for back, skirts of the several parts. 
which should be a little longer than at the side- L, center of front, without any allowance. 
Beam, J. M, lower center point of the skirt of back, 

X. perpendicular line of back. N, natural boundary of dress waist or basque, 

00, bottom of v as cut by every one except the author. This is 

The sleete at the arm-hole,, you tee, repre- a new and finely improved style, and is adopted 
sents one-half as hollowing: you will cat the for- at once wherever the Scale is sold. 
ward half in this form: 0, lower front point, it should be a little shorter 

than M. 

PP, lower point at hip, and should not be 



DELATE ;\o. 7. 



quite as long as 11, or at least no longer. On 
Plate No. 3, you will find a sample of the half- 
circle skitt, that joins the waist under these 
Laov Washington Basque. — AA, lines points. It sh< uld be at leas! one-third longer, 
unite to form the junction of the side, body and than the extreme of these points. The half- 
circle skirt may be simply basted fiimly to the 
BB, center of back. waist, and worn or taken off at pleasure. 

CC, CC, side-seam, and continued down the 48. If a lady wishes a side-body, to her dress, 
skirt. draft it the same as basques; it is just as easy 

DD. deduction of front, and addition of Daek to do so; and in y.ny case where shoulder points 
for the new improvement by the author. [See project, hold the back a little full at the upper 
Plate 4. GG.] part of side body, in making up. 

EE, to be the center of front for slender waists. 



DIRECTIONS FOK MAKING DKE88E8, &G 



Ladies have often asked me how this, that! 
and the other thing should be done, concernirg! 
the making of Dresses; presuming, because I had 
invented a scientific system of drafting for ladies 
use, that I must of necessity know all about; 
putting together, arranging and making the 
same. Well, be it so; then of course I must, 
proceed to give the desired information. Wej 
have actually found many claiming to be practi-j 
cal dress-makers, who did not understand some! 
important points in their profession, that it is 
presumed all should know. So in place of giv-| 
ing only a few hints upon the subject, we will 
commence at the beginning, and finish at the; 
end, which shall be the summing up of the! 
w^hole matter, so that the wayfaring seamstress,; 
though unacquainted with the business, need; 
not err therein. 

First, then, having drafting and cut your 
lining, lay it upon the outside or cloth, and cut! 
it precisely like it, [providing it is to be a plain; 
waist.] Next, spread the cloth evenly upon the 
lining, both of the front and back, and draw the| 



cloth from the waist to the neck and shoulders, 
tightly upon the lining, especially the front, bast- 
ing with short stitches one inch and a half from 
the edge all around. Now proceed to put on the 
hooks and eyes, set them true and opposite each 
other, and just one inch apart. Set ihe hooks 
on the side that is to be lapped over. You have 
been told, [No. 31,] that the allowance for hooks 
and eyes must be exactly one inch and a quarter. 
You must turn back exactly three-fourths of this 
allowance both of the hooks and eyes sides alike,* 
;aud set the eyes on the t^dg^ of the fold, and 
the hooks on the back edge of the lap side. 
Turn the back edge ot the allowance of the eye 
side back again to the fold edge over the eyes, 
'and baste it to its place. Then stich down the 
jfold edge to the lining, leaving a shir for the 

i * I am aware that this is pot the way that ladies do 
jit, but you will find this the best, decidedly. The edge 
[of the lap, it is true will be about the founh of an inch 
further to one side than the other, and this is the most 
taMeful. The lap should never be exactly in the middle, 
it looks too precise and studied. 



DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING DRESSES, &C. 



17 



Next turn in the edge of the outside, even smoothly as possible. In case of hollow back, 
with the fold edge at the eyes, and stitch through some think it proper to take a plete up and down 
the whole, and pull out the basting thread that iu the middle of the back; I do not advise this, 
secured the edge of the lap over the eyes. This | but for such a figure draft the side-seam more 
completes the eye .side. Next, rim your shir concave Use the two dart piece, or the long 
along the lap fur a stay on the hook side ; then circular piece, designed to mark the bottom of 
nun the cloth over back to where the hooks are the basque skirt by, instead of the, square, as 
fastened, pushing the hooks through the cloth directed, (See No. 6 ) In case of very full form, 
and stitch down to the edge ; this finishes the lay a small horizontal plete each side of the 
hook side. You will now take up the Darts, and 'center, opposite or over the points of the darts, 
if vuu wish the outside and lining taken in togeth- just under the bosom. To flounce a dress, take 
er. do so, and if not, take up the darts of the the same course in dividing it equally, as directed 
lining separate, and turn in the fullness for darts for skirt. Sew in a cord, to gather with, and 
of the cloth, and stitch to the lining or separately, draw thread and cord both in gathering; then 
as you choose. The shirs for the stays in thejiattach equal divisions of the flounce, to corres- 
darts, must be set close to the meatus fitting the ponding ones of the skirt, at equal distances 
whalebones. The stays for the front should be from the bottom of the skirt, and baste the whole 
verv thin at the top ends, reaching only to the to its proper place and sew it on. Each flounce 
bosom. The stays for the back should also be must be set on one inch above the lower edge of 
thin at the tup, and nut come so high as to the one above it. You must always tear off your 
show. For the side-seams, the stays must be very skirt agreeable to the length from the hip to the 
thin, aud only reach to within one inch of the ; floor, that being the longest, and allow also for 
arm-hole. All the stays must be set before the. making up hem, etc. For full waist, when the 
skirt is set on, after which they must be pushed, iback is cut whole, or the front in either case the 
close to the bottom of the waist, and fastened atHsame, double the lining and the cloth, and lay 
the top to prevent moving up and down. The! the fold of the neek even with the fold of the 
skirt must always be one inch shorter in front! jeloth, and the bottom of the lining, back from 
than at the hips, and the hips and back of equal the fold of the same, so far as may be sufficient 
length; providing the under-skirts set full in theijto give the desired fullness, and cut it out. You 
back (or a bustle worn,) if not, the skirt must will take the same course with either half of the 
be shortened same as front, to prevent dragging. 1 front or back. Always cut the cloth the full size 
Double your skirt and get the halves, then double of the lining, including the allowances, and baste 
again and get quarters, and run in the thread and pursue the same course in making up as for 
for the gathers, and gather as evenly as possible a plain waist: except, that the edges at the 
to the size of the waist. Next, fasten the four hooking is not attached, but hemmed and left 
quarters of the skirt, to the same divisions of the separate; and also, that you must draw up the 
waist, baste it down and sew it on. When the side- outside of the back and front from the waist to 
seams are drafted in the usual manner, you must set' neck and shoulders, much more than a plain 
the seam of the sleeve, one inch forward of the side-i waist, especially the front, else it will bag. If 
seam: But when the waist is drafted in the nian-jin any case there be a deficiency in one bosom or 
ner directed, and explained in No. 48, and the lat- shoulder blade, or any other part of the waist, 
ter part of No. 44, you will set the sleeve-seams! ( draft the waist natural, and use wadding. When 
and side-seams even together. When it is desired, an artificial bosom is worn, do not place it so 
to have a point to the front or back, you will shapejjhigh, as many professed dress-makers do, for it 
and shorten the front half of the skirt, to corres-jis not in harmony with nature and looks badly, 
pond with the shape and extent of the point of -Begin at the arm-hole to sew the side-seam and 
the waist, and adjust, baste down and sew on, asj|shoulder, and be careful not to draw the seams, 
above directed, and the same for a point in the/After the dress is made, give it a careful press- 
back.* Where it is necessary to use wadding! ,ing, this gives it a finish. Fit the sleeve to the 
to give a lady a becoming figure or form of arm-hole, not the arm-hole to the sleeve. When 
bosom, you will shape the waist over the knee, 



then put in the padding, as near imitating nature 



you wish a dress flounced or tucked, refer to Mr. 
Fraxk Leslie's Gazette of Fashions, the best 



as possible, and draw the outside tightly over as, 'and most complete work, on Paris, London and 
before directed. In case of round shoulders,! [New York Fashions in the world. Flounces are 
lay a small plete, only in the lining, of from one||becoming to tall ladies, not short ones. Neither 
to" two and a half inches in length, from the 1 should a short or broad-shouldered lady wear 
middle of the arm-hole of the back towards the: Ipendent shoulders, [See No. 39.] For a low 
shoulder points: then stretch the cloth over as! .bosom or neck dress, the shoulder seam or curve 
I jmust be drafted on the top of the shoulder and 

* Bemember that you are not to neglect to make the!| off > over down on tne arm > [ See 39 '1 then draw 
front of the skirt one inch shorter than at the hips, inHsuch a line on the front and back, as suits for 
addition to this shortening for the point, whether for theljlowness. 

front or back; for when a point is made to the back J In order to draft the shoulder curve, on the top 
tnere can of coarse be no fullness, and therefore tne, i r ., , , , , r , , n , , ~ , i x 

shortening is as needful as the front, for reasons above! !° ftne shoulder, draft the bacK first and carry 
explained. jjthe arm-hole high enough to bring the shoulder 

o 



II 



DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING DRESSES <teC. 



point on the top, and make a new shoulder dot,] 125 and 23.] The same principal also applies to, 
[scratching out the first one,] from which you'jind must be observed in drafting boys and girls' 
proceed to draft the shoulder curve as usual. i ; clothes. The exercise of a little thought and 
You need not draft the neck circles nor the left judgment, with practice in drafting and fitting, 



hand half of the shoulder curves. Then in draft 
ing the front, lower the shoulder point as mucl 



will, in a short time, establish in your mind and 
eye a standard, that will enable you to fit correct- 



as you elevated that of the back, and make a new ly all the varied figures and sizes most beautifully, 
shoulder dot, from which draft the shouldei ('without any trying on whatever, 
curve as usual. In each case carry the Shuffle! N. B. For Boys' Coats, the arm-hole for the 
Scale back to form the pendent shoulder, [See! back should be a little longer than for a girl, or 
39, and Plate 4, SS, and T.] You must noi' 'in other words, the shoulder curve should not be 
neglect to drop the point, letter A, of the Shufflej ! so far down behind the shoulder points. It is 
Scale, in drafting the right half of the shouldeiHnot in good taste for a male figure. To obviate 
curves, let you make what change you may ; andjjthis, take the same course as directed in throwing 
you must also get your half-way points, M and! 'the shoulder curve to the top of the shoulder, for a 
Y, as usual, [See No. 8 and Plate 4.] Take up'jlow neck dress, except that you will not of course 



a small plete on the top edge of the front, from 
one to two inches in length, [according to size] 
of lady,] directly over each breast, to make the 
edge of the waist set close to the chest Some 
say that the back for a low neck must be widei 



aise it to the top entirely, nor carry it down on 
be arm, as for a lady. See Plate 5, dotted line 
E, this is drafted with the seam for shoulder 
curve, same as for a lady, but you must never 
Iraft it quite so sloping, See No. 34. In drafting 



than for a high: the Author can see no good'!* pendent shoulder, for a lady, only raise the 
philosophy for this. If you must do so, add a] [sharp point letter A, of the Shuffle Scale, a verv 
degree to the Chest Scale, for the back. little up from Avhere it should be for a natural 
This in the double makes nearly a half inch.Urm-hole; not so much as shown by dotted line T, 
which is plenty. iPlate No. 4. Where line T, is carried over to arm- 

If ihe figure should happen to be one of thosel circle S, it should be only so much elevated as to 
whose back should need to be increased one oil have the arm-circle S, the same length exactly, as 



two degrees, you will not be obliged to make it 
any broader, even though a low necked dress- 
requires a wider back than usual, [See Nos. 23, 
25 and 33.] 

The principle on which is based the relative 
balances of the Chest, Shoulder and Neck Scales 
is founded on the presumption of the existence 



he natural one, li. If line T is raised too high, 
the arm circle will be too loose on the point of 
ihe shoulder: remember this. 

N. B. In cutting a pattern for any one, for any 
garment whatever, cut the pattern exactly on, or 
in the draft lines, and then show them how and 
where to take the seams and make the allowances 



of a proportionately sized bosom, corresponding' !when cutting the cloth by it and making up 



There are many forms or figures now prevalent, 
from causes hinted at in my letter to the ladies, 
under the head "important facts, etc," that ought 
not to be fitted at all. For such cases, you will 
iake their measure, and cut them a proper shaped 
waist, to what their figure would otherwise have 
been, and try on and pad to give them proper 
3hape. Ladies, why are not boys thus tortured, 
crippled and deformed? The question is an im- 
portant and serious one. 



in all cases with the size of the individual. This 
is the law. Such being the case, it is easy to 
perceive that the relative bight of the Neck Scales 
and position of the arm-holes, forward or back- 
ward, depeuds on the existence of a proportion- 
able sized bozom; hence the exceptions that an 
noted for you to 6tudy and observe. Because! 
of this law there are certain facts to which I here! 
wish to call your attention, viz: The existence oi| 
non-existence of a bosom, does not alter the highij 
or slope of the shoulder, from the neck to the 
point of the same, [See No. 27,] but it makes a 

greater or less difference of chest measure, upon 1 ; In drafting a Basque, draft the arm-hole the 
which the correct balance of the Neck Scales' same as for dress for frent and back, then make 
depend. Example: — A lady measures 30 inches the necessary changes as directed, (See last part 
by virtue of a full sized bosom, and with a com- of No. 44.) ' The only difference between a Dress 
mon figure her Neck Scales would range aijand Basque, is given'on Plate 4, lines GG, and 
degree 30. This gives her a fine fitting shoulder ; ; 00, the front being narrower and the back 
Again, another lady of exactly the same size.ijwider. 

hight and figure, but minus the bosom, conse-j! To Draft a Boy's Sack Coat. — Take the mea- 
quently measures only 28 inches. Now to make sure the same as for any style and go by it in 
her Neck Scales 28, would be evidently two jail respects, except that you add as many degrees 
degrees too low. Thus you are obliged to give ;to the Chest and Waist "Scales for the front°and 
her an artificial form, like the first in size, or else : back, as you wish the coat Inches larger, and 
plus her Neck Scales two degrees, [two inches shape the skirt as suits you. Give much spring 
being about the difference between a full bosom in the back with a seam, and for the hips if you 
and none at all, for an ordinary size.] The same; | wish, or none, as suits you. You must apply 
principles or rule holds good in reference to the'jthe true measure for the Neck Shoulder and 
proper width for back, as explained, [See Nos ! Shixffle Scale, same as usual. 



MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS 



Medals Prizes axd Diplomas. — Mr "notorious" friend, 
Taylor, boasts of Medals, and a "certificate of originality" 
for his spawn of a Scale; 1 have made an affidavit of this 
fact for mine. Now, brother Taylor, do so for that thing 
that you call your "receut system of Dress Cutting." if you 
dare, and we will most likely •' put you in the lock-up" 
for perjury. (See last half of ray Preface.) Dr. E. P. 
Minier could boast of the same for his Scale, if he chose, 
to do so; for his Scale was -on exhibition at the Ohio. 
Hew York and Connecticut State Fairs, in the Fall of 
1856, and also the American Institute of Art< 
Palace. N. T.. and received the highest honors. But all; 
who are at all posted in these matters are well aware or i 
their utter worthlessness ; therefore the Author decline-j 
making any note of them. He visited the Fairs simply toj 
give his Scale publicity, and not to get a medal, to servej 
as a badge of merit, or to give character to his Scale. 



All persons who wish to inform themselves about my 1 
Scale, are at liberty to write to any one whose name isl 
found in the book concerning their kuowledge of it, 01. 
by sending three letter stamps, shall have one of the; 
Bo >ks forwarded (freei by return mail. After examining 
it, if a Scale is sent for, state that you have a Book, tha 
another need not be sent with the Scale. 

S. T. Taylor makes a great blow about his partiality ! 
friendship aud exclusiveness for the Dressmakers and 
Milliners, in the sale of that " Gentlemar's Coat Scale' 
he calls his, and his Fashion Book. All this, to an\| 
discerning eye, is pure hypocrisy. The fact is this, he! 
makes "a virtue of necessity." or in better and mon 
truthful phraseology, tries to make a speculation out of 
necessity, inasmuch as his Fashion Book is fit for no out 
but such, aud not even tit for them; while his Scale L-! 
so complicated, tedious and worthless, that it is fit fo>i 
nothing for the public, and can not be used by any one ! 
except by constaut practice. He is not unwise, theiefore. 1 
in crying up for exclusiveness, to curry -favor with tin 
Dressmakers and Milliners. 'See Bon Ton, for March 
page 37, bottom of leit hand column. "My system i,- 
the same as that used by Tailors for cutting Coats! 
etc ," (See last half of my preface.) So far as Dr. Mmiei 
is concerned, he does not declare any partiality. Hi.- 
Scale was invented for the benefit of all, and he is willing 
that any oue that wants it should have it — but he is far 
from believing that Dressmakers will, or can be at al 
injured by the circulation of his Scale among the mass oi 
the people. The opposite of this will be found to be tht 
result: sewing machines, woolen factories, and even 
oiher domestic, as well as many other inventions of tht 
past century, have been cried down upon the saint 
grounds: but each and every one have proved benefits and 
helps, not only to to the masses, but individual profes- 
sions, with whose interests they were supposed to con- 
flict. I could show by analogy, and by conclusive ar- 
gument, if it were necessary, that dressmakers would b> 
nearly as much benefitted by the circulation of my Scale- 
among the mass of the people, as among themselves 
Taylor tells you with one breath that he goes exclusively 
for the interests of the dressmakers and milbn rs, and 
then turns round in the next and says that his Scale wiL 
become universal among families, as well as dressmakers 
Then again he tells you that it is of the highest impor- 
tance that you are regularly informed of Paris fashions. 
etc., and then with the next breath again, that tht 
fashions are daily and hourly changing, so that you can 
not be successful tags to Paris if you were ever so desirous 
or Willing to be mere imitators. Thus he goe3 on with 
his ssrvile and stupid absurdities, and contradictions in 
all his writings. He curses all the models and card 
plans of cutting dresses, and then turns right around and 
recommends the same thing and at the same price, in the! 



form of a bundle of different sized patterns, all of "one 
uniform shape," for the lady dressmakers, to fit all the 
infinitely varied figures by. "Let each dressmaker, who 
can not make it convenient to learn my system, send for 
a set of our beautifal and correctly cut dress patterns. 
Twelve patterns, varying in size, will be sent to order, 
on the receipt of two dollars." (See Bon Ton, June No. 
.page 87, of 1857.) All his editorials, writings and selec- 
ions, are perfect "burlesques" on common sense, as any 
me, with half and eye can see by examiuiug and com- 
paring them. Bombast, Burlesque, Blackguard, Slander 
ind Li j s, are the ouly prominent features, and constitutes 
i he major portion of all that he writes or says. This is a 
fact that can not be truthfully contradicted*. One of the 
dr?: ladies of Bloomington, 111., told me that she ordered 
; him out of her house three times, and that she never 
oetore was so insulted, nor heard any one go on so redic- 
l-ilously, and that she would not take his "Bon Ton, be- 
cause of his shameful couduct. An other most excellent 
jlady of the same place, who, with her husband keeps a 
1 uillinery and furnishing store, told me that she could 
>nly excuse his couduct and publications, en the ground 
_>f monomania; for she could not understand how a man 
';n his senses could talk and conduct himself so ab-urdiy. 
| At the house where myself aud wife were stopping, in the 
Uame town, the lady told me, on my return after Taylor 
eft, that his conduct towards my wife, was such, that she 
lad a mind to kick him out of doors. In Davenport, 
iowa, a Xoiary Public, who knew Taylor personally in 
S ew York, said that he was a dirty contemptible black- 
guard, and a perfect tyrant, and 'that wherever he was 
•tuown, his tongue was no slander. Several prominent 
adies in Cleveland, Ohio, expressed their utter contempt 
md disgust for the fellow, and would not have his 
Scales or his rion Ton. I found but oue in the whole city. 
A. gentleman from Knoxville, 111., writes to me: "Your 
Vlr. Taylor from New York has been here; he seems to 
oe tremendously down on you and your Scales, but he 
lid not effect much with us. I think he says entirely too 
nuch for his own good etc." In Terre Haute, Ind., he 
md his women he bad traveling with him, insulted aud 
iisgusted (I was told by them,) the dressmakers and 
nilliners of that place, so much so, that not one of them 
would have anything to do with him. And the lady and 
gentlemen with whom they stopped while there, told 
nyself and wife that their conduct at their house was so 
disgusting and shameful, that they would have turned 
;hem out of the house if they had not immediately left. 
The lady told my wife that she never felt so mortified at 
he conduct of strangers before, and "other particulars 
hat I decline publishing for the present," for they were 
oo indecent to come before the public. The youngest of 
he two women with him, the lady knew, and also her 
people in some interior county of Ohio. She said that she 
ook her into a private room and advised her if she had any 
character left, or had any regard for her worthy father 
md mother, to quit that dirty troupe and go directly 
home. Four of our prominent ladies, here i:«i the Queen 
Jity of the West, expressed to me their utter loathing of 
he man, and three out of the four were his advertised 
\gents, and will not act for him any longer. One of the 
four said, that while he was in her'store, his words and 
ictions were so sickish and silly, that her girls made a 
Laughing stock of him, and for her part, she thought he 
vas cracked, and that he and his Bon Ton and Scale 
vere perfect humbugs. Taylor's statement about a cer- 
:ain letter, and a very prudent reply to the same, etc., 
tike all the rest of his "trash, is an infamous lie. T never 
vrote any such letter, and defy him or any one, to pro- 
iuce anything of the kind. 

His statement too in respect to my dealings with the 
lady in Xenia, Ohio, is as false as his false heart, and 
is nothingbut a malicious misrepresentation. His search 



20 



FROM S. T. TAYLOR'S LE BOX TOX. 



in Cincinnati, instead of being for me, as he reports, was; 
for Dr. Minor, and the thousands here who Know me,| 
knew me by no such name. 

If some few ladies in Cleveland reported me a nine-; 
year-old widower, why should Brother Taylor feel so 
nettled about it'/ If the stupid fool had held his tongue, 
he would have saved his own credit as well as mine. 
There i.s not a respectable lady living, who has, or ever 
had cause to complain of my deportment to her in any 
wise whatever. I am no friend to tattlers, and as Taylor 
says they have friends left, I am glad of it, for if they' 
keep his company long, they will doubtless need them. 

Taylor says that I reported that I had sold my scale to 
a number cutting by his, in Albany, Troy, and other 
parts, etc.; this too is false. In my whole years travel 
from West to East, and from East to "West again, I found 
only four of his. One in Albany, New York, and the 
other in Cleveland, 0. The other two, one in Painsville, 
0.; aad the other in Davenport, Iowa. I took differeat 
routes on my whole course. I was among the Dress- 
makers in New Tork City for three weeks, in which 
place scores of my scales have been sold, but not one of 
his did I hear tell of or find. I sold over a dozen of my 
Scales in Albauy, N. Y., over ihirty in Troy; two dozen 
in Allegheny CV Over twenty in Buffalo; to every 



dressmaker I could find in Clevelaud, Ohio, except three 
or four; twenty-nine in the City of Fort "Wayne, Indiana: 
thirty in Pekin, 111., and from three to four, to eight or 
ten in all other places on those routes. For Taylor's 
Scales and mine in Cincinnati, see Certificates. I have 
a number of certificates from the City of Cleveland and 
other places, but have not room to insert them. 
j Now, ladies, I have given you a synopsis of this no- 
torious S. T. Taylor, slanderer, liar and beetle-head: 
what do you think of him"? Is he not of a piece with 
some others that we have been compelled to notice on 
bur journey through life? Be cautious after this old chap, 
how you travel through a stranger rough-shod, lest yon 
might find a six-eyed friend near ! ! 
1 "In conclusion, I will give the Old Coon a small piece 
of advice." First, never come within the reach of my 
Gutta-percha; for if you do, by the heavens above me you 
shall rue it. Second, once and forever, never let me hear 
anything from your tougue about me, or hear or see any- 
thing from your pen, in any publication whatever: not 
even an apology for what you have so unprovoked and 
basely tried to do. Let me hear one syllable if you dare, 
for I am not the man that a filthy, miserable devil like 
you can run over ! ' ' ! ' 



EXTRACTS FROM S. T. TAYLOR'S LE BOX TOX, 



[The following is the brief of S. T. Taylor's unpro- 
voked lies and bombast, that he has taken the liberty to ! 
publish about me, as seen telow, beginning in April 
and continuing until November. How much longer he 
may continue, I care not. He is capable of any amount 
of lies or the lowest villainy, as any one can see by the 
spirit and tone of his pen.]" 

From Le Bon Ton, April Number, 1 - "■ 7 . 
What is the matter, is there not some danger of the 
Leslie and Demcrest fever taking a turn for the worse? 
Call in Dr. Minier. 

From Li' Bon Ton, May Number, 1657. 

We have recently seen a letter from a Dr. Minier, who 
professes to knowmoie about cutting dresses than the 
best of us, M'me Lamertine not excepted. Well, as he is 
a Doctor, that may be so, and we shall not dispute the 
assertion until we have time and opportunity to annalyzej 
the matter. It would seem from his letter and circular 
that he has been doing a smashing business, but in all 
our travels we have not as yet had the pleasure of seeing: 
one of his Charts. It appears that the Doctor is very ner-i 
vous, so much so that he is exceedingly anxious to get a' 
certain young lady of my acquaintance to travel with' 
him. 

The following is a letter from us to him, after reading 
his circular, and the note to the young lady: 

407 Broadwav, N. Y.. March 1 • 
Dr. E. P. Minier, 

Sir: I see, by a letter and circular of yours,- 
that you claim to be the inventor of a system for cutting 
ladies' dresses, and that you challenge the world to pro- 
duce its equal. This challenge I accept, and will meet 
you at my earliest possible convenience, at some suitable 
place, hereafter to be decided on by us. If not ton much 
trouble, please give me the names of those ladies, cutting! 
by my system, that have bought of you. An early reply 
to this will much oblige, vonrs respectfnllv, 

S."T. TAYLOR.' 
E. P. Minier. Cincinnati, 0. 

All that the Doctor says in his note and circular may 
be true. Vint we doubt it." and will £tj V p him five dollar* tol 



produce the name of a single intelligent dressmaker, who 
has cut by our system, and understands it correctly, that 
has ever given it up for his. This we are willing to 
venture before we see the Doctor or his system, which we 
hope to have the pleasure of doing soon, as we are now 
on our way west. 

From Le Bon Ton, June Number, 1S57. 
Wonders will never cease ; in our last we had occasion, 
from the following circumstances, to speak of a man 
calling himself Dr. Minier. In a letter and circular of 
his, sent us by a friend, he made the following statement, 
which we did not believe at the time, and wrote him a 
few lines, which may be found in our May number. In 
speaking of his system, he challenged the world to pro- 
duce its equal, and further stated, that when in Albanv, 
Troy, and other parts of York State, he sold his rule to 
a number of ladies cutting by Taylor's system. This we 
knew to be a falsehood, and a gross misrepresentation, 
consequently we wrote him a few lines, requesting him 
to give us the names of a few of the ladies that had given 
up our system for his, and at the same time accepted his 
challenge, and proposed to meet him at our earliest pos- 
sible convenience, at some suitable place, heieafter to be 
decided on by us. Shortly after writing him to Cincin- 
nati, O, his place of residence, we started on a tour west, 
and made inquiry all along the southern route, from 
Wheeling, Ya., to Cincinnati. In that city we inquired 
of every dressmaker and milliner that we called on. 
looked in the City Directory, inquired of several gentle- 
men, but could not hear the first word of Dr. Minier. 
From Cincinnati on our way to Columbus, we heard of 
him, for the first time, at Xenia, under the following cir- 
cumstances: — A lady, who^e name we have as a sub- 
scriber, informed as that she had learned his system, with 
the understanding, that if not correct, to write him ar 
Cincinnati, and he would send for it. and return to her 
the five dollars. She stated that she could do nothing 
with it, and wrote him to that effect, but could not get to 
hear from him, and supposed that he was dead. She 
said there was another lady in the place in the self-same 
fix. The third, and all that we have found up to the 
time of writing this, was in Columbus. Here we found 
one who was also minus of her five dollars, and said that 
she wished he had never come to Columbus. 



EXTRACTS FROM S. T. TAYLOR'S LE BON TOX. 



21 



A few words about this system, and we shall let it I 
drop for llie present. It is nothing more nor less than -\y e 



From Le Bon Ton, October Number, 1S57. 
.. e have had frequent occasion to speak of a certain 
the old card principle, and is as worthless as those Dr. E. P. Minier going the rounds, teaching and selling 
taught by I owler bnggs Demorest and others. We Ms charts. We are Informed that he has^passed hirm 
prouounce them all imperfect and worthless for cutting self off iu t]ie State of Q]li as a nine _ vear . old widower. 
ladies dresses, and hold ourselves ready to meet the In traveling through the State of Illinois, it so happened 
whole of them, If they be honest men and women, they ±at ^ e foi f nd his ° wife in Bloomington. In our ned we 
certa-nly can not have the least objection to test their will suraup the whole m an | iye u t] tic . 

much-talked-ot plans. 1 he truth is. they shun me like u l ars 

the owl would the light of day; they prefer to prowl 

around in parts and places where persons are not ac From Le Bon T November, 1857. 

quainted with the principles of garment-cutting, and TTTp ' , fTV ' 

extort from the poor dressmaker, her hard though honest THE ^OTOKIOLs DR. E. P. MMER. 

earnings. However much it may be against our feelings Who is this M. D., and what is his business, are ques- 
thus to speak, the circumstances" in the case demand "it tions that interest at least a portion of the community. 
from some one. and we know of no one who has the j^v"e have became somewhat acquainted with this gentle- 
moral courage to do it. In justice to a confiding and man under the following circumstances : Last March 
unsuspectihg class of ladies, there should be a law to .we received a letter of his directed to an acquaintance of 
examine and properly test all such matters before offered ours, with a copy of her very prudent reply, the substance 
to the public, and we, for one, would go for imprisonment of which was that he was then teaching a model system 
for each and everv violation of the same. &>* cutting ladies' dresses, and that he had sold it to a 

Again we say, look out for them; learn no svstem number cutting by our system; and that he challenged 
until vou know something of the character and standing the world to produce its equal, with the request that'she 
>f the" inventor. should give up ours and travel with and for him. Our 

.reply to this letter was written the 16th o$ March and 

posted to Cincinnati, his stated place of business, a copv 

1837- of which may be found in our May number We left 

_,, . . , ,.; , . ,„ _ i home on our tour west the lt'th. of March, with a deter- 

The mure we hear of the man calling himself Dr. i minatioil to find ^ maa ^ possible ; a faithful and an 

Minier the stronger our convictions are that he is des- honest seardl vas made for j^ whUe in Cincinnati, but 

titute of those traits that characterize the gentleman In : C0llld not find the first one tLat had ever heard of such a 

ileyeland. JMiio, he succeeded in selling his old and bein? We then looked in xhe city direc tory but M t0 



worthless Charts, by telling the ladies that he had met 
with Mr. Taylor, in Xew York City, and that we gave 
him our hand with the acknowledgement that his system 
was superior to ours, and wished him great success. On 
his way, he succeeded in selling a few of his Charts 
which are as 



i41 o« u , ..v. F .^^ u ^^ ™ ^ ~ & -»~*. ™~ -~, «~ »~ was Qoae in uoiumous ana in oanausKy, ; 

never saw the man to our knowledge, and could only be :manv otner places we are not prepared to sav. 
practised, under the circumstances, by a thing destitute land, Ohio, he resorted to another stratagem wl 



no purpose ; the man that had written such a letter was 
not to be fouud in the Queen City of the West. We de- 
termined, however, not to give up the chase, and for the 
first time seen his system and learned of his mode of 
»«>j operating in Xenia, Ohio. Here he informed the ladv 
rorthless for cutting ladies dresses as the that bis res j dence and place of business was in Cincin- 
fifth wheel to a coach. This statement of his, which aati- aud if she found the SYSteni imDerfect . to write him 
would blacken the character of some now in the State and her fire dollars would be refunded. The same thing 
Prison, we pronounce to be a gross falsehood, as we was done in Columbus and in Sandusky, and in how 

Iu Cleve- 
_.agem which seemed 
of those principles which help to make up the man. | t0 serve ^is purpose verv well for the time. Tliat was 

This, with other matters now in our possession, has:' that he had seen me iri New y ork and t i iat ve had ?iven 
exposed him to the penalty of the law, and should we him our hand witll tlle acknowledgement that his svstem 
learn of his whereabouts, we intend to give him a practi- ; was SU p e rior to ours. This base falsehood was contra- 
cal demonstration. A short and timely lesson of that dieted in our report for Julv, with a notice from the iu- 
sort may save him from an apprenticeship. suited ladies of Cleveland that he was not at liheitv io 

The fact is we have found but one who tried to cut by| ! use ^h- names in connection with his business. "We 
it; and when we had shown her that the foolish thing! £he n hoped that we had heard the last and the worst of 
cut dresses exactly alike, for all ladies of the same size 'i t) bu r. it turns out not to be so. Not contented with ta- 
regardless of their figures, she replied: "well he told nie'jdng f r0 m the dress-maker her hard earnings he has 
that I could not fit all, if I cut by the chart V I 'sought to blast her hopes and destroy her peace forever. 

In Sandusky, 0., we found but one chart sold by Mr. while in Cleveland he made it his business to inform 
Minier: Misses Farrand & McGraves is the firm. Those ! icertain ladies that he was a widower and that his wife 
ladies are not cutting by it; said that he told them thejjhad been dead nine years. On the 5th of September we 
same story as the one referred to in Cleveland; and are| found the wife of this nine year old widower in Bloom- 
quite indignant at his conduct, as all should be. j ington, 111. She informed us that she had been married 
Give us your help, ladies, one and all, and we shall; to him seventeen years the first day of October, and gave 
soon be able to drive such imposters from the field, oil jug other particulars which we deeline publishing at 
have them arrested for obtaining money under false, present. We made the second trip to Bloomington. 
pretenses. The lady in Xenia, referred to in our! 'hoping to find him there, but he had disappeared ; he is 
last, can bring suit if so disposed, and we will furnish: \ Q0W prowling around in small count it places for thepui- 
tlie funds to prosecute it, if requested. Make an example 'pose of selling his worthless cards. 'Look out for him, 
of such men and women traveling through the country; his cards are like all others, imperfect and worthless for 
public sentiment will give you credit for it. The Dress- the Dressmakers, tell each and all that we say so, and 
maker must and shall be protected. that 1 will pay $500 on failing to establish the fact, 
A lady informs us that Minier's intended route is to Whenever called on to do so. Now, ladies, we have 
Leopold, Ind., and from there to St. Louis. ; Look out for 'given you a synopsis of the spiritualist and quack doctor. 
him. What do you think of him? Is he not of a piece with 

some others that we have been compelled to notice since 

I our tour west. In Ottaway, 111., he feigned to be verv 
From Le Bon Ton, August Number, 1857. reljgi ous , ^d fl^t too after telling the falsehoods and 
Since our last: we have heard but little of the spirit-practising the deceptions above named. Perhaps he is 
ualist and quack doctor. One of his pamphlets on Dress-' of the free-love or morman persuasion, if so, two wives 
making, medicine and petticoats, was handed to us by a||would not be at all out of the way. In conclusion, we 
lady in Cleveland, Ohio: we have scanned it, and pro- will give the old coon a small piece, of advice, and that 
nounce the part on dress cutting a great burlesque. We, is, he must not forget that certain ladies have some friends 
leave the medicine and petticoats "for the Doctors andijleft; be careful old chap how you travel through the 
Ladies to dispose of. Oh! dear! |;8tate of Ohio. 



22 



CERTIFICATES OF RECOMMENDATION. 



AFFIDAVIT OF MRS. MELICENT MLN'IER. | m? more than a quack, he had better be practising than selling 

»iis scale?. There is not one of ihem in use that you have sold. 
I will give the snm of the items that I have obtained, that S.T l M. Wherever [ have heard from onr Scales, they are used and 
Taylor got of the w.fe of the "notorious" Dr. E. P. Minier, ih»t he much applauded." 

"declines publishing for the present." (See the above November | T. It is not so ma'm; if any one does use it, it is some one that 
lies.) Myself, Wife and little Son had been traveling together for! (knows no more about cutting than yon do. Your scale is a perfect 
about six months, selling oar Scales, when we arrived in Blooml ihnmbug. Are you the real wile of Dr. Minier?" 
ington, III., on our wav home to Cincinnati, fiom Burlington, Iowa ;! M. 'I am sir." (with spirit.) 

on the Mississippi. We stopped in Bloomington a few days 10 I T. "Are you the real, lawful wife, of Dr. Minier"!" 
visit a friend. VVbile there I was induce. I to go to an adjoining ! M. "Yes Sir! I am the real, lawful wife of Dr. Minier. (with 
County-seat (Pekin,) on business, and while absent, my frikno, S 1 indignation.) 
T. Taylor comes to Bioomington, and finding me gone.'caMs on my|| T. "How long have yon been married? 



wife, and being told by her that she expected me back in a fev 

ot' 



' day 
or perhaps that evening, treated her and some other ladies in the 
place to a specimen of his bringing up, and after discharging a >ie 
mendous volley ot his insolence, concluded to climax his geaeral- 
ship by leaving the p'ace on the first train running south, fur rfeai 
that liie " no'orious " Dr. E. P. Minier, "whom he so nincii desire.! 
to see," and "searched for so faithfully," should be upon him before 
he could get himelf into safe quarters. Afier I got home to Cin 
cinnati, my valiant friend, faylor. returned safely to B oommgton, 
and finished his siege with liie ladies and reported thai I wa- 
prowling about in small towns, selling niv worthless cards and 
cheating the poor dressmakers. Instead of this cowa'dly lie being 
any part of it true, myself and wife came directly home, (except to| 
•top in Terre Haute, Ind, five or six days,) wbere I have been since 
selling my Scales, to the very ladies tnat has or had his, and worse 
than all, to his advertised Agents, as seen by the certificates here 
published. 

Taylor— The door being opened, Taylor enters 

Minibr — I gave the general a seat. 

T. "Do you wish, madam, to subscribe for my Bon Ton of 
Fashions?" 

M. "No, we have no use for it; myself and hnshand are traveling 
together, selling a Dress Scale of o"r own.'' 

T. "What is the name of your Scale?" 

M. "It was invented by my husband, Dr. Minier; I turned and 
got one, and politely handed it to him; he looked at it for a momen 
and indignantly threw it upon the floor " 

T. "Are you the wife of Dr. Minier?" (frowninglvj 

M. "I am." 

T. I am very happy to see you, and where is the Doctor? (with 
a sneer.) 

M. 'In Taswell Co., a short distance west. I am looking f.ir him 
back soon; he may come this evening." 

T. 1 should like very much to »ee h in; mv name is S. T. Taylor, 
of .Vew York. I have understood that Dr. Minier laid thai he' had 
seen me in New Vork, and sh.iok hands with me, and that 1 ac- 
knowledged to him that his Scale was superiortn mine, and bid him 
good speed; this is false, I never saw Dr. Minier." 

M, "Sir, the Doctor does not claim to have ever seen you, anil 
never said any such thing I am sure He lays that a certain gentle 
man in New Vork, was the mes-enger of yniir BomplimenU to hi in 
with an invitation to call on you, and intimating, that if the Doctor 



M. "Sixteen or seventeen years.' 

T. "Where was you married?" 

M. "In Delaware, Ohio." 

T. "Where was you raised?" 

M. "In Delaware Countv, Ohio." 

T. "Where was your husband raised?" 

M . "In I'ennsylvania." 

T. '-Where has been your place of residence for the last few 
years?" 

M. "In Miami Countv, Ohio." 

T. "The Doc. or says that his residence is in Cincinnati." 

M. "So it is Sir, because his business location is tnere, and be has 
<pent the most of his time there, for the past two or three years." 

T. -'Why is he not. found there when called for?" 

M. "How can be be there when traveling on business?" 

T. I wrote to the Doctor, challenging him to meet me, to test the 
elative merits of our Scales. 

M. "Ah liustiand never leceived any snch letter from you, ifso 1 
should have known it."" 

T. "He h*» received it, and had not the manhood to answer it." 

M. "I would like to know sir, by what authority you assert this?" 

T. "Are you aware, madam, that, your husband was trying to 
persuade ladies to travel with him, passing himself off for a single 
nan, before you and. he were traveling together?" 

.VI. "I wonld not care if he did; I am not afraid to trust him with 
.he ladies. He knows enough to take care of himself." 

T. "He has; I can prove that he tried to get some of my acquaint. - 
inces to travel wnh him!" 

M. "What do I know what he is deing when away, anymore 
ban your wife knows about yon, when you are away?" 

T. "I am a widower, and it is therefore a different matter, if 
.vomen do travel with me." [Here exposing himself, a* I did not 
inow that they did ] 

M. "I ehould want better authority than you, to prove to me 
that yon are a widower " 

j T. "Yon can have good authority for that ma'm." [Here giving 
'two or three strange names from the South and East.] At this 
point the chivalrous S. T. Tavlor took bis exit. 
Ill 

- I The above I declare to be a correct and trnthful account, of the 
conversation, etc., that took place between S. T. Taylor and 
nyself, as near as I can recollect it, on or about the 1st of Septen.- 



had or could superceed von with a better Scale, that vn'i would >er, 1857, while stopping a few days at Bloomington, III. 
take him by the band with fellowship, etc. Tins is the whole MRS. MEDIO EN T MINIER. 

siatire of the matter, and your informer must either hive misnnder 

stood bun, or maliciously falsified his statement. Sworn to before me, and subscribed in ray presence, this 28th day 

T. f have good authority for it, and know that he gaid it. (Virtu- of December, 1857. 

v 



ally gi ving M. the lie.) Your Scale is good for nothing. if on are 
traveling 'round the country imposing on ihe public with them; and 
if your husband l. a pliysioian, as he pretends to be, if he is noth- 



W. CHFD3EY, 

Justice of the Pea 



CERTIFICATES OF RECOMMENDATION. 



Cincinnati, Dec. 1857. I 

I have purchased Dr. Minier's New Mathematical! 

Scale, for drafting Ladies' Dresses, Basques, and Boys'; 

Clothes, and believe it to be all that i> claimed for it,' 

and hesitate not in recommending it to the public. 

MRS. LIZZIE SNYDER, 

No. 107 West Sixth Street. 1 

[This lady, Mrs. Snyder, as well s- Mrs. and Miss 
Alcorn, seen below, have abandoned S. T. Taylor's, 
vaunted system, and adopted the Authors. These ladies, 
as many are aware, were Taylor's advertised Agents' 
for Cincinnati, to sell and teach his so-called system of 
Dress-cutting.] 



take exceeding pleasure in recommending your Scales 
to the attention of Ladies generally. Respectfully, 

MRS, J. C. BEL MAN, 
No. 442 Fifth Street. 



Cincinnati, Dec. 1857. 
Dr. Minier, — Sir: I have tested your system for draft- 
ing Ladies' Dresses, Basque-, and Boys' Clothing, and 
find it superior to any other that has ever come under my 
observation, I experience no difficulty in making exact 
fits.with far greater rapidity than hv other methods, and 



[The following is from S. T. Taylor's advertised 
Agents for teaching his so-called system of Catting 
Dresses, as also Mrs. Snyder, above-named ] 

Cincinnati Dec. 1857. 
We fully acquiesce in the expression of Mrs. Belman, 
as above, and also state to the public that we have thrown 
aside, as worse than useless, S. T. Taylor's System of 
Cutting Dresses. We are satisfied that 'it bears no com- 
parison to Dr. Miniers, whose Scale we have adopted 
instead, as our true guide in drafting We take measures, 
cut and make our customers work without tryiug on, and 
give full satisfaction. We believe it to be the ultimatum of 
all that we could desire in this department of our profession 
All success to Dr. Minier, "whom we delight to honor." 
MRS. SARAH R. ALCORN. 
MISS CORDELIA D. ALCORN. 
No. 330 W. Fifth St. 



CERTIFICATES OF RECOMMENDATION. 



23 



OraciHifATi, Dec. 1^57. have ever met frith; bat I can best explain to you how 
It is with gratification that I give ruy naire and influ-' they are liked here, by saying what one of our Dress 
■r the benefit of the lady public, "in confirming the Makers, (one of the first class,) said to me: "If I could 
hi«hest recommendations given uf Dr. Minier's Scale foi not get Minier's Scales for less, I would pay one hundred 
Ladies Drafting. 1 have been a practical Tailor for many dollars for it, before I would be without one. I have 
vears, and can therefore appreciate the merits of the never failed with it to give perfect satisfaction to my 
Doctors invention. I have examined it closely and seen customers." Are we not to be at the Crystal Palace 
it tested, and pronounce it a rare exhibition of mechanical again this Fall with the Scales? Here ought to be your 
genius, and an instrument that the Author, as well a? head-quarters; at least you should have a Depot here im- 
the ladies may well be proud of. medialelv. Yours, in haste, 

GEO. P. SCOTT, MRS. J. F. THOMAS. 



Northeast corner of Fifth and Park St J 



New York, July 28, 1657. 
July, ltoo. This is to certify that I have been a Dress Maker in 

This certifies that we have had the pleasure of testing nis city for the past eight years, and followed the old 



the merits of Dr. E. P. Minier's 



recommend it to all. 



MRS. E. P. NAM. 



Mathematical Scale foi mode of cuttil1 g umil last Winter, when Mrs. J. F. 
cutting Ladies' Dresses, Basques, and Boys' Coats, and Thomas called on me, and recommended D* Minier's 
consider it the very ultimatum of pe.fection. It is ex- ^w mcd<? <:,f cutting Dresses I took one oi the Scales 
tremely simple and durable, and secures in all cases ; , and tried it, and now think it indispensable, and would 
most natural and elegant fit, without trying on until tht 
dress is finished. It is adapted to all sizes and figures 
not even excepting those 'who are deformed! We thinl 
Dr. Miuier justly entitled to many thanks for the grea' 
and much needed improvement in Dress Cutting whicl 
he has achieved for us: and for ourselves, and in behalt 
of the ladies in general, -we bestow upon him our best 
wishes and esteem. 

Harriet E. Hexdricl, Dress Maker, Homby, N. Y. 

Miss A. Johx. " " Dayton, 0. 

Miss F. R. Thompson, " " Dayton, 0. 

Mrs. M. C. Laeew, " " Dayton, 0. 



WoRTHlNGTOX, FraXKXIX Co., 0-, I 

September 12, 1856 $ 
uh pleasure that I recommend to the acceptance 
of the public a new Mathematical Dress Scale, for draft-] 
ing Ladies' Dresses, basques, and Boys' Coats, got up by j 
Dr. Minier of Cincinnati. Being a Tailor by trade, and 
having for mauy years studied and practised draltin 



[Extract from a private business letter.] 

New Havex, Coxx., April, 1857. 
••Dr. Mixiee, — Dear Sir: I received your kind favor of 
the 15th, etc. 

If you will send me a quantity of your Scales, I will 
rake hold and sell them. We have been testing them 
most faithfully, to the entire satisfaction of our friends. 
Please answer and let me know what you will do, etc. 
Respectfully, yours, 

JOHN CHASE. 



r An extract from Miss Truesdale's letter to the Author.] 



Teoy, 
"Respected Friend, Dr. Minier 
nforming me, etc. 



N. Y.,Jan. 15, 1857. 
-I received your letter, 
I now hasten to write you that I re- 



Yours, truly, 

EMELINE TRLESDALE. 



all its forms, consider myself competent to decide upon ceived your second letter, and hope that when you receive 

the merits of the above-named Scale. I have also heard ,nis > VuU ^" i]1 uoC tnink tnat l wished to neglect to m- 

ladies, who have tested it, speak of it with high enco f " r ^ you that I am well pleased with your Dress Scales. 

m i ums The ladies here that have learned of you are very much 

ISAAC THOMPSON pleased with theirs. I assure you that I have been very 

-uccessful in all that I have fitted with your Scale. I 

September 12 1656 nave taken measures, and cut and made Dresses and 

T , . c .. ,, , „-, , , . , Basques and sent them home without trying on, and the 

I am the wife of Mr. 1. Thompson, and have carried L^ ^ gQ much rised to find t £ eir vork so 

on Dress Making for several years and have tried tc ^cely fitted, that ,bey wished me to send their thanks 

avail myself of the best plans for drafting bot m all ^ tleman wWhad invented so fine a Scale for 

candor, say that I believe Dr. Minier's Scale is vastly iheir b | nefit . Please answer immediately, etc. 

superior to any with which 1 am acquainted. I heart! 

concur with my husband in his statements. It drafts! I 

Basques, far more beautiful and complete than they havej 

heretofore been cut by any person or mode. By its use. 

all sizes and figures can be fitted with the greatest ease [The following is an extract from a private letter, by 
and elegance. No trying on or alteration is needed. j'the Rev. C. D. Brooks, to the Author.] 
PHILENA THOMPSON 

Belfast, Axleghaxey Co., N. Y., ? 
September 12, 1856. j February 23, 1857 j 

We, the citizens of Worthington, having become ac- Deae Beoteee : 
quainted wiih the superior advantages of Dr. Minier's' Mr. M. has just been in with intelligence from you. I 
Dress Scale for drafting Ladies' Dresses, etc., most was glad to near that you were well and doing well 
cheerfully subscribe to the above expression of Mr. and selling your excellent Scales. Those patterns you cut 
Mrs. Thompson, and also the recommendations given by for the ladies here, make very nice fits, and the System 
the Dress Makers of Dayton. " of Cutting is much admired, etc. 

Mes. Ass E. Butchee, Dress Maker. ^onrs truly, ever, rmnevtm 

Mes. Casolise E. Wallexg. Miss Ahwa McEivain. |i C.D.BROOKS. 

Mrs. Salome McElvalx. Miss Sarah McElvaix. 

Mrs. J^rcsha Russell. 



£-LLICOTVILLE, 



CATTERAtJGrS Co., Ey. > 

June, 8, 1857.5 

[The following is a short extract from a private busi-: De Mixier,— Dear Sir: I saw you last Winter at 
ness letter sent the Author by Mrs. J. F. Thomas, No. 10: Li tt i e Valley, and bought one of 'your Mathematical 
Patchm Place, N. Y., a first class Dress Maker, and one; Scales. I talked with you at the time about taking the 
who has used the Author's Scale over a year, having fa- Agency for their sale. We have thoroughly tried them 
merly tried ail the plans going.] ] an ° d find t hem all that you recommend them to be. If 

, vou are willing that I should engage in their sale, I am 
New York, July 27, 1857. Jeady to do so. Please write immediately. 
Dr. E. P. Mixier, — -Dear Sir, etc., etc." You ask me j Yours, truly, 

for my opinion of your Scales. They are the best that lj| M. G. BRYANT. 



24 



MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS. 



Buffalo, N. Y., April 17, 1857. 
Du. Mimek: Dear Sir — Your plan of Cutting Dieses 
exceeds everything I have ever learned yet, and my 
girls all want your Scales to work by. I understood you 

offered theuj to Miss Robinson for a Scale. If you 

will let me have them for the same price, I -would like a 
half dozen set of them. Please "write and let me know,' 
and oblige, 

.MRS. ELIZA M. RELPH. 
No. 10 Niagara Street. 

Port Wayse, Ltd. April, 1857. 

We saj to our lady friends that we have tested the 
merits of Dr. Muriel's new Scale for drafting Ladies' 
Dresses, Basques, etc., and think il superior to all other 
plans, and most confidentially recommend il 
citizens and the public at large. Jt drafts a beautiful 
style, and does it so quick as to appear almost magical. 
Mrb-Luct Bmtolb, ) 01aga Dre68makere . 

Bliss Sarah Mohgah, \ 

Mas. K. J. Maier. Mrs. Maria Lewis. 

Mjss Sallie }!. 



The following are extracts from private letters 

the Author from Fort Wayne, Ind., between the last 
of July and the first of Oct. 1 357 : 

We are delighted with the Scale — you are deserving 
of all praise for what you have done for us. I would not 
take twenty -five dollars for mine. We think it vastly 



superior to all other modes, ^'o price would induce me 
to part with it if I could not get an other. The style of 
its cutting is fine. We would not take thirty dollars for 
ours. We wish you much success, and feel under many 
obligations fur your kindness, etc. 

'1 he expressions of the ladies of Foit Wayne as reported 
to the Author whose names we give below. 
MRS. C. BURT, MRS. S. TIGERS, 

MISS RUTH AIKEN, MISS EMILY WAUGH, 
MISS S. TURNER, MISS SARAH HUMBURT, 

MISS ELIZA WRITER, MISS M. ZIMMERS, 
MRS. C. P. FERRY, MRS. S. WHIT TAKER, 

MRS. B. W. OAKLEY. 

Ail first class Dressmakers of the City of Fort Wayne, 
Indiana, to each of whom the Author sold Scales during 
the month of April, 1^57. 

Fobt Wayne, Lnd.. Sept. 27. 1- 
Dk. Miniee — Dear Sir: I received yours of the 16th, 
etc. I caLed on Mrs. Sickners again after I wrote you, 
and found her at home. She said that she had learned 
four different methods cf cutting Dresses, etc . ; considered 
yours infinitely superior to them all. I think 1 have 
never expressed to you a- I should have done, the satis- 
faction your Scale has afforded me. especially in fitting 
Basques; I always dreaded touching one before, but with 
the Scale it is mere pleasure to fit them now, etc., etc. 
Your friend, 

MISS CAROLINE SMITH. 



CAUTION TO THE PUBLIC 



Imita ti ons of my Mathematical Scale, ;md an infriuge- 
ment of my right, have been already attempted by a' 
person well known as a character suited to such business 
in the ; person of Win. H. Burlew, formerly of Steuben 
County, N. Y., but laterly of Dayton, 0. His match for 
meanness, lying and hypocrisy is hard to find, and the 
whereabouts of such impostors and renegades had better 
be closely watched. The greatest damage his infringe-: 
ment can do me, if any, will consist in disgracing mine 
by its worthless imitation; being very defective and 
entirely wanting in one of its most important parts, 
which I suppose he omitted thinking thereby to escape 
the lasii of the law. But in this, as in his former rascali- 
ties, he has made a sad mistake. I shall now pursue 
him through every lane of life. The above named in-! 
fringement is on my first edition. This new edition is 
dated, as you see, A. D. 1S57. Its completion and in-' 
troduction to the public dates from the last month of the 
year. It is vastly superior to the first edition : First, be- 
cause of its improved mechanical arrangement; second,: 
by the perfection of a defective part, through a new ap- 
plication of science in the addition of a highly important 
scale of degrees not on the first work; third, "by a splen- 
did folio map of draftings of over thirty square feet of 
surface; and, fourthly and lastly, by a large and perfect; 
book of instruction, both complete and ample in every 
necessary department. My autograph (signature.) will' 
always be found under the title page of the Scale, and 1 
also upon the Shuffle Scale, and at the end of the preface 
in the book. The public are hereby informed that if 
anything in the form of my Scale, or its arrangement in; 
whole or in part, or resembling mine is offered them, not 
having my autograph upon it a3 above, that it is an in- 
fringement and an imposition. To use my autograph 
will be not only an infringement but a forgery, which 
involves, if detected, a terrible penalty. The public 
should be careful to examine into the particulars noted 
above and those which follow, that all parties may be 
protected from impositions. For the better security of 



all concerned it is deemed important to establish and 
carry out the following inviolate rules : Every agent of 
mine shall be furnished with a printed "certificate of 
agency, with rny signature, in my own hand, written the 
same as the autograph. The certificate shall limit their 
districts of sale, or assign them their field of labor, be- 
yond which they are not allowed to go. They are re- 
quired to show their certificates to every purchaser of the 
Scale, or any one who asks to see it. Said certificate 
being only good for the year of its date, a new one being 
given for each new year. Each agent is also required to 
keep a strict account or registry of sales, the name in full, 
and Postoffice address of each purchaser, and the number 
of the Scale purchased by each, and send a duplicate 
list, or the list itself, to the office from which the Scales 
were purchased. The plan of numbering each one of 
my Scales in perfect numerical order, from one on to 
thousands on thousands, and the regulations here and 
elsewhere noted, (see "special notice,") — with, also, the 
affixing of my autograph, — will render it quite impossi- 
ble for any one to infringe on my right, or carry on the 
counterfeiting of my Scale without immediate detection. 
This arrangement is the outward form or working of a 
deep laid scheme, known only to myself, which will defy 
the utmost tact of impostors and swindlers to escape me. 
If the first edition was infringed, what may be expected 
of this. There are never wanting those who are too lazy 
and mean to obtain an honest living, who are constantly 
prowling around to profit by the hard labor and energy 
of other?. A vigilant eye should always be kept upon 
such. This is the case" with the above named Burlew. 
I helped him in ihe hour of need, out of pity and sym- 
pathy for his distressed wife and family, to save them 
from suffering and becoming a town charge, and this is 
the return I get for it. A most liberal reward shall be 
paid to any person who shall detect in any one the vio- 
lation of any rules as above and elsewhere laid down, or 
the infringement or counterfeiting of my Scale ; and give 
notice to me of the same. 



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